Thursday, October 14, 2004

The Vulgaris Beet

One of my favorite vegetables is in season right now. If you think of a tin can when you think of beets, then you haven't experienced beets in all their glory.

When you purchase a bunch of fresh beets from the local farmstand or in the produce department of your grocer, you are taking home a truly versatile vegetable.

Beets can be eaten raw, grated into a salad or slaw, covered with water and boiled in a saucepan, roasted in the oven, or pickled. I have even seen them made into cakes and ice cream! The green tops can be cooked separately in a little water and served like spinach.

Like many people growing up in the city in the 50s, the only beets I tasted were out of a can. They were quite bland and not at all memorable. Years later, while traveling through Europe I was served fresh beets, and they were an entirely different story. Beets are much more popular in Europe, and I looked for them in Germany, Belgium, and Scandinavia. I tasted them in soups, relishes, and pies. They were wonderful, and I’ve been hooked ever since.

Related to Swiss chard, spinach, and the sugar beet, the common garden beet (beta vulgaris) was initially developed from a leafy Mediterranean plant.

Ancient Romans ate only the leaves. Later on, they bravely nibbled on the bulbs. Nineteenth century horticulturists developed the fleshy globe-shaped roots familiar to us today.

In recent years, these beets have been crossbred with sugar beets to give them more sweetness.

In addition to red beets, there are golden-yellow, and pink-and-white-ringed beets. You can find seeds to grow these yellow and white beets in seed catalogs. These are good choices to grow alongside red beets as they won’t tint other ingredients if used in salads and other mixed vegetable dishes.

I happen to love the color, though you have to be careful when cleaning beets, lest your kitchen look like a crime scene.

The best way to cook and clean beets are to scrub them in the sink, nip off the roots and leaves about 2-inches from the root. Be careful not to break the tender skin of the beet, or the rich red juice will be lost in cooking. Cover the beets with water and boil for about 45 minutes.

After they are cooked, drain them and peel them under cool running water by rubbing them (you can do this with paper towels to avoid staining your fingers). The skins should slip right off.


Beetroot Chutney
I found this recipe in a little Scottish cookbook during my travels. This makes a colorful tasty relish to serve alongside roast turkey or baked ham. This recipe calls for a lot of sugar. I feel that halving the amount of sugar would not harm this recipe at all.
3 pounds beetroot
2 pounds apples
2 onions
1 pint vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 pounds sugar
1 lemon
Wash the beets, and boil unpeeled for 1 1/2 hours. Allow to cool in the water, then peel them and cut into small cubes. Peel and chop the apples and onions. Squeeze the juice from the lemon. Put the apples and onions into a pan with the vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and ginger. Boil for 20 minutes. Add the beetroot cubes and cook for another 20 minutes. Allow to cool; spoon into hot, sterilized jars and seal. Makes about 4 pints.

Hot Spicy Shredded Beets
2 pounds beets, trimmed, peeled, and coarsely grated
1/2 cup coarsely grated onion
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup dry red wine
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Simmer all ingredients, covered, 25 to 30 minutes until beets are tender and flavors well blended. Stir once or twice during cooking.
Serves 4.

Baby Beets with Beet Greens
Select young beets when they are not larger than a shallot; the tops will then be just the right age to be tender and sweet. Wash thoroughly in running water. Be careful not to break the skin of the beet, or the rich red juice will be lost in cooking.

Put them in enough slightly salted boiling water to well cover them and boil quickly until tender; it should require from thirty to forty-five minutes. Take them out of the pot when done and plunge the beets only, not the tops, into very cold water; the skins will very readily rub off with the fingers.

Drain the greens and cut them up, not too fine; add plenty of melted butter, a tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.

Mix lightly with a fork, arrange them on a shallow dish or platter, cut the beets in halves, and lay them in a border around the greens. To make the dish more ornamental the beets may be alternated with slices of hardboiled egg. Serve with the following sour cream dressing, or any mayonnaise-based dressing of your choice. Ranch dressing is a good choice.

Sour Cream Dressing
1/2 pint sour cream
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 scant tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon or to taste prepared mustard
Stir the sour cream until smooth. Gradually add the remaining ingredients, mixing well as you do so.

Thursday, October 07, 2004

Crustless in the Catskills


Here is an example of how crazy the weather has been this year: This past weekend I started to prepare my garden for the upcoming colder weather; cutting back perennials, piling on mulch, etc. I arrived at my rhubarb patch, and lo and behold, there was a new crop of rhubarb ready for picking.

Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, I picked all the stalks I could and brought them in the house to make a cobbler.
    
I didn’t get any zucchini this summer (now, that’s really strange), but I got two crops of rhubarb. That’s just plain crazy!
    
The monsoon we experienced July, August, and September, seemed to have had a positive effect on apple tree growth. The apples this year are scrumptious.
    
I love stopping at local farmstands and loading up on a variety of apples. My favorite is the Macoun, but my new second favorite is the gala. Not only are they just so pretty with red, orange, and yellow blending together, but also they’re crisp and delicious.
    
Trying to avoid pie-making (not an easy thing to do), I’m on the lookout for other ways to sweeten my life with apples.
   
I make a mean mulligatawny soup using apples and curry. Acorn squash stuffed with chopped apples, a little cinnamon, and a drizzling of maple syrup is an autumn favorite. Don’t even get me started on the attributes of apple and peanut butter. With apples around, who needs pie crust!


Apple Ratatouille
Here is a variation on traditional ratatouille. This would also made a delicious filling for acorn squash. Just slice the squash in half, par-cook it in a pan with an inch of water until it is softened. Turn it over, drain the water out, and fill the hollows with a few spoonfuls of apple ratatouille. Put it back in the oven for another 20 minutes or so to heat through.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
4 garlic cloves
2 teaspoons dried basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 bell peppers, sliced
2 medium zucchini, sliced
6 ripe tomatoes, quartered
2 medium cooking apples, diced
Heat olive oil in a large skillet and add onion. Crush garlic directly into skillet and sauté for 5 minutes. Sprinkle in basil, oregano, allspice, and black pepper. Stir bell peppers into onions, and sauté for 10 minutes. Add zucchini and tomatoes to the skillet. Stir, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add apples to the ratatouille, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Serve hot.
Serves 8.
 

Grated Apple Fritters
For a real autumn taste, drizzle these with some maple syrup.
1 large cooking apple
2 large eggs
1/2 cup flour (you can use whole wheat or white, or a mixture of the both)
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Butter, margarine, or vegetable oil for frying
Powdered sugar and whipped cream for garnish, optional
Peel, core, and grate apple into a medium-size bowl. Separate the eggs. Drop the whites into a large bowl, the yolks into a small bowl. Whisk yolks until light and stir into grated apple. Add flour, baking powder, baking soda, and spices; stir to combine.
    
Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into apple mixture. Heat butter, margarine, or vegetable oil, 1/4-inch deep, in a hot skillet. Drop batter by heaping tablespoonful into hot fat. Cook for 1 minute, turn, and cook 1 minute more. The fritters should be golden brown. Drain on paper toweling, and serve immediately or keep warm in a low oven. Serve with a dusting of powdered sugar, and/or a little bit of whipped cream.
Serves 2-4.