Denmark is Brisling

You might think that I was going to address the recent uproar concerning certain cartoons in Danish publications (I’m sure the editor and publisher of this newspaper has just taken a deep breath), but alas, this column is about sardines.

Personally, I don’t care much for sardines. I’m sure they hold some delight and respect from others, but if I’m going to have a fish out of a can, I’d rather it be tuna.

However, if sardines are your preference, this column is for you.

Brisling is the Danish and Norwegian name of a sprat, a small sardine-like fish that swims from the north of Norway all the way down to the Mediterranean.

These sprats are caught in the Norwegian fjords, seasoned, canned with oil, and labeled brisling sardines in America.

Brisling sardines are smaller than other sardines and so more of those poor little fish—up to 38 actually—are jammed into tin cans.

These little sardines travel in gigantic schools that extend for miles, and are caught in nets, as they have been for a thousand years by the Scandinavians. Brisling sardines are caught just at maturity, and are about 2 years old.

Then the sardines are wood-smoked in large ovens and hand-packed. The most popular tins of sardines are those packed in oil. However, they also come packed in water, soy oil, tomato sauce, mustard, salsa, and pesto.

I was going to include a caricature of a Danish Sardine, but thought better of it.

Quiche with Sardines, Lavender and Jarlsberg Cheese
If you’d rather not use sardines, you can substitute canned smoked salmon instead. The use of fresh or dried lavender adds interest and sweetness to this recipe. However, if you can’t find lavender, or choose not to use it, fresh or dried dill would be a nice substitute.

One 9-inch piecrust
3 to 4 onions, chopped
4 eggs
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 pound Jarlsberg cheese, grated
1 tablespoon fresh lavender or 1- 1/2 teaspoon dried lavender
1 small jalapeno, or to taste, minced
1/2 to 1 pound brisling sardines or smoked salmon
8 to 10 small cherry tomatoes, halved

Preheat oven to 350°F. Pre-bake the piecrust for 10 minutes. In a large skillet over medium-high heat in 2 tablespoons olive oil, sauté onions. Add the sautéed onions to the piecrust.

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, cream, and grated Jarlsberg. Season with lavender and jalapeno.

Place half the sardines and half the tomatoes on top of the onions. Add the cheese-egg mixture and spread it out evenly with a rubber spatula. Place the remaining sardines and tomatoes on top in a decorative, circular form.

Bake the quiche in the middle of the oven for 35 to 45 minutes, until almost firm. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serves 4 as a main dish.

Penne with Fried Sardines, Capers and Parsley
1/2 pound penne or ziti
1 cup fresh parsley, chopped fine
1 small red onion, chopped fine
2 tablespoons drained capers
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying
One (3- 3/4-ounce) can brisling sardines, drained on paper towels

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente and drain well in a colander. In a bowl, toss together the cooked pasta, parsley, sautéed onion, capers, crushed red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle mixture with lemon juice and olive oil and toss to combine. Keep warm while you prepare sardines.

In a large skillet heat 1/2-inch vegetable oil over high heat and lower half of sardines with a slotted spoon into oil. Fry sardines until crisp and golden, about 1 minute, and transfer with slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Fry and drain remaining sardines in same manner. Add sardines to pasta and toss to combine. Serves 2. Recipe can be doubled.