Baking Easter Memories

Spring heralds a host of religious holidays, and just as budding flowers and trees rejoice in physical rebirth, Easter celebrates hope and the renewal of the spirit.

Foods and specialty dishes are an integral part of holidays, and Easter has some wonderful ones. The Italians prepare wonderful rustic and savory pies for Easter, such as pizza rustica di pasqua, which is ham, salami and mozzarella cheese filled pie. Don’t let the word pizza confuse you; pizza means pie in Italian. Another pie is pizza di scarola, an escarole pie, and one of my favorites. On the sweet side is the ricotta pie and grain pie.

The Italian grain pie is made with soft wheat berries, and though it doesn’t sound very appetizing, it is not to be missed. All my life, I always thought the little nibs in the pie were tapioca, since it looked just like tapioca. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I discovered the grain in the pie were wheat berries.

The English have their Easter specialty, as well. Hot cross buns have been associated with Easter since Tudor times when they were traditionally made on Good Friday to be eaten over the holiday weekend.

Every family has their own recipe for these sweet breads, but I love them when they are filled with currants and glacéed fruit.

The French have a rich dessert called blancmange, which is a molded custard thickened with ground almonds, and flavored with kirsch. This recipe has been found in mediaeval manuscripts.

In Russia, a nut and fruit-filled yeast cake called kulich is served during Easter. The classic kulich contains glacéed fruit, almonds, and raisins.

This sweet bread is baked in a special pan that is tall and cylindrical like a coffee can. When the cake is finished baking, it is decorated with white frosting drizzled down the sides. On the side, spelled out in pieces of glacéed fruit, were the letter XB, representing the Cyrillic letters for “Christos voskres” (Christ is risen).

Accompanying the kulich is a sweet cheese spread called paskha, which is carefully molded in a triangular shape. The letters XB are also inscribed on this creation.

Whichever sweet or savory bread you’re baking this Easter, may your holiday be filled with the love of family and friends, and may this spring raise your spirits.

Russian Easter Kulich
2 1/2 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons yeast
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup butter
1 egg
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup currants
1 tablespoon rum or sherry
1/4 cup slivered almonds
Glaze:
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1- 1/2 teaspoons milk

Butter a 2-lb. coffee can. Fold a double sheet of aluminum foil around the top of the can to extend it about 2 inches.

Soak raisins and currants in the sherry for about 1/2 hour before beginning dough.

Combine yeast, 1 cup flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl of an electric mixer. Heat milk and butter until butter is melted and mixture is very warm, but not boiling. Pour milk mixture into dry ingredients with mixer slowly running, then beat until smooth. Beat in eggs, egg yolks, and lemon zest. Gradually add remaining flour, beating well after each addition. Beat in almonds and sherry-soaked raisins and currants.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and satiny. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Shape dough into a ball and place in the greased 2-pound coffee can. Loosely cover top of can with plastic wrap or foil and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, or until dough almost reaches the top of the can.

Bake in a preheated 400° oven for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350° and continue baking for another 35 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean and the loaf sounds hollow when thumped. Let cool on a wire rack, remove from can after about 10 minutes and let cool completely before glazing.

To mix glaze, blend confectioners’ sugar and milk until smooth. Spread glaze over the top, letting it drizzle down the sides.

To serve, cut off the frosted crown and place in the center of a serving plate. Cut remaining loaf lengthwise, then in half crosswise, and arrange on plate around the cut top.