The crisp and crumbling cruller

I don’t see what the fuss is about with Krispy Kreme doughnuts. To me, they are on a par with Wonderbread white bread: all fluff, no substance. (That’s good; I just killed two brand names in one paragraph. I should be hearing from them soon.)

If I’m going to go off my diet and indulge in something sweet to accompany my coffee, it’s going to be something more substantial. It’s going to be either a Danish or a cruller.

We all are familiar with Danishes; that luscious pastry filled with cheese, almonds, or fruit fillings. I’ll take cherry or prune, thank you.

Crullers are another story. I’ve seen them in various forms. Sometimes a cruller is a doughnut dough leavened with yeast or baking powder that’s shaped into a long twist, deep fried and sprinkled with sugar or glazed with a thin icing. The traditional French cruller, looks like a tractor-tire, is made from pate a choux, and is basically hollow.

I never feel that satisfied after eating a French cruller. However, the twisty doughnut cruller, when made well, is absolutely scrumptious.

The fried cake-like cruller has Dutch origins. Indeed, the word “cruller” comes from the Dutch krulle, meaning “twisted cake.” The Dutch brought them to NY and there is mention of them in 1818 in Washington Irving’s “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.” “The doughty dough-nut… the crisp and crumbling cruller.”

However, you will find cruller-like recipes in just about every ethnic cuisine, from Italian zeppole, to Mexican churros, to Chinese deep-fried devils.
A cruller by any name will taste as sweet.

Dutch Crullers
1 cup warm milk
1 package dry yeast
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more, as needed, divided use
1/4 cup melted butter
1 cup light brown sugar
2 eggs, well beaten
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1 (48-ounce) bottle, or more, vegetable oil for frying
Granulated sugar for sprinkling

In a medium bowl, sprinkle yeast over milk and let rest 5 minutes. Add salt, granulated sugar and 2 cups flour. Beat thoroughly. Cover and let rise until double in bulk, about 1 hour.

Stir down and add butter, brown sugar, eggs, nutmeg, and 1 cup flour. Beat well, cover, and let rise again until almost double in bulk.
Stir down again, and turn out onto lightly floured board, kneading in only enough flour so it handles easily. Let rest 10 minutes, then roll or pat out about 1/3 inch thick. Cut in 3/4-inch-wide, 8-inch-long strips. Let rise, uncovered, about 1 hour. Twist each strip several times and pinch ends.

Pour oil into deep-fat fryer or large, straight-sided saucepan to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Heat oil to 375°. Line baking sheet or plate with paper towels.
Fry doughnuts, 4 at time, turning once, 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain, and then place on wire rack to cool completely.

When doughnuts are cool, sprinkle with sugar. Makes about 3 dozen crullers.

This recipe does not use yeast, and therefore there is less “rising time.”
Fried Cruller Bows
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large whole egg
2 egg whites
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Vegetable oil for frying
Confectioners’ sugar ground cinnamon for sprinkling

Combine flour, 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, and salt in a small bowl. Stir in whole egg, the egg whites, and vanilla extract with fork until mixture is crumbly.
Form dough into a ball; knead on lightly floured surface until smooth, about 5 minutes. Cover loosely; let stand about 30 minutes.

Heat 2 inches of oil to 375° in a large heavy saucepan. Roll dough on floured surface to a 12-inch square, about 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 12 (1-inch) strips; cut strips in half to form 24 (6x1-inch) strips. Tie each strip into a knot.

Fry knots in oil, a few at a time, 3 to 4 minutes or until golden. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon. Serve warm. Makes 24 crullers.