Made with Lovage

Every day brings change in the garden in the spring. You could almost watch the buds bursting open, and seedlings inch their way toward the sun and its warmth.

Just last week, I was raking autumn’s leaf debris off my herb garden exposing tiny new growth peeking out of the ground. Today, my lovage is in full growth, and the chives are brandishing little pink flowers on their tips.

The lovage has been the best addition to my herb garden. I honestly don’t know how I managed without it all those years. I certainly can’t make tuna salad without it; its addition is essential.

For those not familiar with lovage, this tall herb is in the parsley family, but is similar in taste to celery with a hint of lemon and fennel.

Lovage originates in Southern Europe and was one of the most prominent flavors in Ancient Roman cooking. In Germany, lovage is used often to flavor potato salads.

I only use the lovage leaf from my garden, though the seeds of the flowers are used as a spice as well. In fact, what is sold as “celery seed” is often partially or entirely ground lovage seed.

The seeds are used to flavor breads, potatoes, dressings, salads, and cordials.

The leaves are used in cheeses, eggs (it’s wonderful in an omelet), salads, stews, and with chicken.

In Turkey, they make a meatloaf using allspice, garlic and lovage ground with the meat, which is then served with yogurt and mint.

Lovage leaves can be used in any recipe that calls for celery leaves, just use less, as lovage is twice as strong in flavor as celery.

If you find lovage seeds for sale in your garden center, snatch them up. This old timey herb plant will add new timey taste to your dishes.

In lieu of a recipe for tuna salad, which needs no recipe, here is one for a rich clam chowder using lovage. Prepare to be blown away. You will lovage this.

Lovage Clam Chowder
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup of chopped onions
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup vermouth
2 cups heavy or light cream
1 large potato, grated (1 cup)
1 cup clam juice
1 cup fresh lovage leaves
1 cup chopped scallions
1 cup minced clams
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Sauté the onions and garlic in butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat just until softened, but not browned.

Add the vermouth, cream, potato, and clam juice. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook just long enough to soften the potatoes, about 20 minutes. Do not let it come to a full boil.

Add the lovage and scallions to a blender container. Pour the soup base on top of the herbs and blend until smooth. Pour back into the pot, and when you are ready to serve add the clams and gently reheat the soup. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Peas and Carrots Salad
1 pound fresh peas
1- 1/2 pounds carrots, sliced
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 tablespoon plain yogurt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1- 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh lovage leaves

Combine carrots with peas and steam for no more than 15 minutes. Cool slightly.

Mix together the mayonnaise and yogurt. Add Dijon mustard, and fold in the lovage, followed by the steamed peas and carrots. Allow to cool completely before serving. Serves 4.