Without fail, if I write about the unbearable heat a week before my column is actually printed, you can be sure that the week it appears in print there will be frost on the ground.
If I write about the terrible drought, my readers will be reading about it while inundated with a week of rain.
Therefore, let me start by saying that last week, well, actually two weeks for me, I remarked about the heat wave. This week, actually the week before for you, or is it the previous week, I’m writing about the rain, rain, rain, and cold. A vague memory for sure, when you read this. Or not.
Anyway, during that rainy, cold spell we had, or might have had, I made a big pot of soup.
Minestrone is often my soup of choice, mostly because there is no set recipe for this hearty dish. It is usually made from whatever vegetables are on hand, can be vegetarian, or contain meat.
Minestrone, as most everyone knows, originates from Italy. It is believed that monks served the soup to travelers who called at their monastery. That’s a nice thing to believe, whether it’s true or not.
The soup comes from humble origins. No one set about creating a mixed vegetable soup; the soup was made using leftovers and what seasonal vegetables and legumes were on hand. Just about every version of minestrone contained dried beans. Dried beans have a long life, and so this humble soup nourished the Ancient Roman army. It was their sustenance.
Various parts of Italy created their own version of the soup. The people of Genoa add pesto to the soup when it is served. The Milanese add bacon and rice to the vegetables. Ligurian minestrone has the addition of spinach.
In this point in time, you don’t need to use dried beans; you could use canned, and you don’t need to rely on leftovers; you could shop for the ingredients you wish to use at any time of year, whether it be zucchini, spinach or cabbage.
1) Therefore, on this rainy day, a bowl of hearty minestrone could be your only sure thing.
2) Therefore, on this cold day, a bowl of warming minestrone could be your only sure thing.
3) Therefore, on this hot day, a bowl of soothing minestrone could be your only sure thing.
4) Therefore on this snowy day...NOOOOO!
Minestrone
Pancetta is spicy Italian bacon that is cured with salt but not smoked like American bacon. If you can’t find pancetta, use prosciutto (Italian ham) or regular bacon. Feel free to substitute other vegetables in the recipe.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound Swiss chart, stems trimmed, leaves chopped
1 russet potato, peeled and cubed
One 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary or 1 teaspoon fresh
One 15-ounce can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
Two 14-ounce cans beef broth
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or 1 tablespoon dried
Grated Parmesan cheese for serving
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, pancetta, and garlic. Sauté until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the chard and potato; sauté for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and rosemary. Simmer until the chard is wilted and the tomatoes break down, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, blend 3/4 cup of the beans with 1/4 cup of the broth in a processor until almost smooth. Add the puréed bean mixture and remaining broth to the vegetable mixture. Simmer until the potato pieces are tender, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Stir in the whole beans and parsley. Simmer until the beans are heated through and the soup is thick, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4.
Thursday, June 22, 2006
Thursday, June 15, 2006
Professor Gadget
Probably the worst time to buy a gift is at Father’s Day. That’s the time of year when manufacturers bring out their useless gadgets and stereotypical “masculine” products.
Browsing through a store the other day, I saw a beverage cooler that plugs into a laptop. You place a soda or beer bottle on top of the cooler platform to chill it at 45 degrees. The added appeal for this gift is that when dad knocks the bottle over and it spills all over the laptop, you get to buy him a new laptop for his birthday.
Another handy device I saw was a coin bank that sorts dad’s loose change. This one had me laughing. If you’re buying dad a gift for Father’ Day, that means he has kids. Dad + kids = 0 money to sort.
Along this line, I saw a coin bank with a clock. The bank looked like someone bending over and the coin slot was… well, use your imagination. With this gadget, when dad looks at the time, it can remind him that one, he has no money, and two, he’s an ass. A very thoughtful gift.
Then there are the usual money clips for all that imaginary paper money, and slot machine banks. What will they think of next!
In the Father’s Day gift section, there is no shortage of compasses, silly coffee mugs, miniature tools like teeny tiny screwdrivers and levelers to carry around, golfing knickknacks, and of course, the inevitable ties and tie clips.
When I reached my teenage years, I realized that all those gadgets and manly Father’s Day gifts were a total waste of money. I decided early on that I would get my dad something we could all enjoy. One year, I got him a Bob Dylan record, and another year, two tickets to a concert we could attend together. Unfortunately, Perry Como was sold out, but Led Zeppelin was terrific that year.
Now in my later years, after all the Father’s Day gifts I have purchased—mostly duds—I have some valuable advice for this Sunday.
Dad doesn’t want paisley pajamas; he doesn’t want a clock with a golf ball attached to it; and he doesn’t want a coin bank that plays, “For He’s A Jolly Good Fellow.”
Give dad what he truly wants. Sit him down in front of a baseball game, place a nice cold beer, and a big bowl of chips and dip in front of him, and hand him the remote. Then slowly back out of the room and leave him in peace until dinnertime. It will be the best Father’s Day he has ever had!
Marinated Grilled Skirt Steak
A long marinating time allows many powerful ingredients to penetrate the meat. The acid in the vinegar and Worcestershire sauce doesn’t just flavor the meat but also breaks down the connective tissue making the meat tender. Serve this with corn on the cob and a chunky warm potato salad.
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup canola oil
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 shallots, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
4 pounds skirt steak, cleaned of all exterior fat
Put all ingredients, except steak, in a blender and blend until smooth.
Pour the marinade over the skirt steak in a nonreactive pan. Marinate, refrigerated, for 3 to 4 hours before grilling, but no more than 10 hours.
When ready to cook the steak, prepare your grill for grilling. Remove the steak from the marinade and clean away any excess marinade with the back of a knife. Grill the steak over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes per side to serve it rare to medium-rare.
When cooked, slice the steak thinly against the grain, starting at one corner and cutting on the bias. Serve either hot or at room temperature. Serves 8.
Browsing through a store the other day, I saw a beverage cooler that plugs into a laptop. You place a soda or beer bottle on top of the cooler platform to chill it at 45 degrees. The added appeal for this gift is that when dad knocks the bottle over and it spills all over the laptop, you get to buy him a new laptop for his birthday.
Another handy device I saw was a coin bank that sorts dad’s loose change. This one had me laughing. If you’re buying dad a gift for Father’ Day, that means he has kids. Dad + kids = 0 money to sort.
Along this line, I saw a coin bank with a clock. The bank looked like someone bending over and the coin slot was… well, use your imagination. With this gadget, when dad looks at the time, it can remind him that one, he has no money, and two, he’s an ass. A very thoughtful gift.
Then there are the usual money clips for all that imaginary paper money, and slot machine banks. What will they think of next!
In the Father’s Day gift section, there is no shortage of compasses, silly coffee mugs, miniature tools like teeny tiny screwdrivers and levelers to carry around, golfing knickknacks, and of course, the inevitable ties and tie clips.
When I reached my teenage years, I realized that all those gadgets and manly Father’s Day gifts were a total waste of money. I decided early on that I would get my dad something we could all enjoy. One year, I got him a Bob Dylan record, and another year, two tickets to a concert we could attend together. Unfortunately, Perry Como was sold out, but Led Zeppelin was terrific that year.
Now in my later years, after all the Father’s Day gifts I have purchased—mostly duds—I have some valuable advice for this Sunday.
Dad doesn’t want paisley pajamas; he doesn’t want a clock with a golf ball attached to it; and he doesn’t want a coin bank that plays, “For He’s A Jolly Good Fellow.”
Give dad what he truly wants. Sit him down in front of a baseball game, place a nice cold beer, and a big bowl of chips and dip in front of him, and hand him the remote. Then slowly back out of the room and leave him in peace until dinnertime. It will be the best Father’s Day he has ever had!
Marinated Grilled Skirt Steak
A long marinating time allows many powerful ingredients to penetrate the meat. The acid in the vinegar and Worcestershire sauce doesn’t just flavor the meat but also breaks down the connective tissue making the meat tender. Serve this with corn on the cob and a chunky warm potato salad.
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup canola oil
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 shallots, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
4 pounds skirt steak, cleaned of all exterior fat
Put all ingredients, except steak, in a blender and blend until smooth.
Pour the marinade over the skirt steak in a nonreactive pan. Marinate, refrigerated, for 3 to 4 hours before grilling, but no more than 10 hours.
When ready to cook the steak, prepare your grill for grilling. Remove the steak from the marinade and clean away any excess marinade with the back of a knife. Grill the steak over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes per side to serve it rare to medium-rare.
When cooked, slice the steak thinly against the grain, starting at one corner and cutting on the bias. Serve either hot or at room temperature. Serves 8.
Thursday, June 08, 2006
Bring It On!
Looking out the window past my computer, I see a lush rainforest. The birds are calling to each other as water drips from the leaves of the lush trees and bushes. The bright green of the forest line is now replaced with a darker, more foreboding green.
This past week has been hot, humid, and rainy. Hot coffee and tea is now replaced with iced, cold drinks. I’ve loaded my refrigerator with pitchers of iced tea, cold leftover coffee, and a variety of juices. I also bought vanilla yogurt to make smoothies.
No three-dollar specialty cold drinks at the local Starbuck’s® (if we had a Starbuck’s) or expensive sugary bottled drinks; I’m making my own. It’s really quite simple and inexpensive. For the smoothies you’ll need a blender, but for everything else, all you need is a tall glass and a spoon.
Apple Raspberry Tea
It’s not Snapple®, but pretty darn close.
1 quart apple juice
1 cup water
8 raspberry herbal tea bags
2 orange pekoe tea bags
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar or sugar substitute
Heat water to boiling. Add tea bags and let steep 15 minutes. Remove tea bags. Pour tea in large pitcher or container. Add sugar or sugar substitute, and lemon juice, and stir to dissolve. When tea has cooled a bit, add apple juice. Stir and store in refrigerator until cold. Serve with lots of ice. Makes enough for 6 thirsty people.
Plain Ole Lemon Iced Tea
The taste isn’t plain, though, but utterly refreshing.
2 quarts water (8 cups)
3 orange pekoe or any regular tea bags
3/4 cup sugar or sugar substitute or to taste
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Heat water to boiling in a large saucepan; turn off heat and add tea bags. Cover pot and let tea steep for about an hour. Pour sugar into a 2-quart pitcher or container. Remove tea bags from pot and pour tea over the sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Add the lemon juice, stir and chill. Makes 2 quarts, enough for you and your friends.
Papaya Creamsicle Smoothie
If you can’t find fresh papayas, use canned papaya chunks. Any other summer or exotic fruit works just as well. Try mango, banana, strawberries or a combination that suits your taste and creativity.
2 ripe papayas
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup vanilla yogurt
1 cup ice
Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed until ice is crushed and drink is smooth. Serves 2.
Frozen Frappuccino
Okay, I lied; for this recipe, you need a coffee maker. Any kind will do.
3/4 cup double-strength coffee, cold
2 to 3 tablespoons sugar
1 cup whole or low-fat milk
2 cups ice
Make double-strength coffee by brewing with twice the coffee required by your coffee maker. That should be 2 tablespoons of ground coffee per each cup of coffee. Chill before using.
Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed until ice is crushed and drink is smooth. Pour into 2 large glasses and serve with a straw. Makes 2 “Grande” drinks.
To make a caramel version, add 3 tablespoons caramel ice cream topping to the original recipe and prepare as above. Top with whipped cream and a drizzle of additional caramel over the whipped cream. You just save a couple of dollars.
For a mocha version, add 3 tablespoons chocolate syrup to the original recipe and prepare as above. Top each glass with whipped cream and drizzle of additional chocolate syrup over the whipped cream.
This past week has been hot, humid, and rainy. Hot coffee and tea is now replaced with iced, cold drinks. I’ve loaded my refrigerator with pitchers of iced tea, cold leftover coffee, and a variety of juices. I also bought vanilla yogurt to make smoothies.
No three-dollar specialty cold drinks at the local Starbuck’s® (if we had a Starbuck’s) or expensive sugary bottled drinks; I’m making my own. It’s really quite simple and inexpensive. For the smoothies you’ll need a blender, but for everything else, all you need is a tall glass and a spoon.
Apple Raspberry Tea
It’s not Snapple®, but pretty darn close.
1 quart apple juice
1 cup water
8 raspberry herbal tea bags
2 orange pekoe tea bags
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar or sugar substitute
Heat water to boiling. Add tea bags and let steep 15 minutes. Remove tea bags. Pour tea in large pitcher or container. Add sugar or sugar substitute, and lemon juice, and stir to dissolve. When tea has cooled a bit, add apple juice. Stir and store in refrigerator until cold. Serve with lots of ice. Makes enough for 6 thirsty people.
Plain Ole Lemon Iced Tea
The taste isn’t plain, though, but utterly refreshing.
2 quarts water (8 cups)
3 orange pekoe or any regular tea bags
3/4 cup sugar or sugar substitute or to taste
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Heat water to boiling in a large saucepan; turn off heat and add tea bags. Cover pot and let tea steep for about an hour. Pour sugar into a 2-quart pitcher or container. Remove tea bags from pot and pour tea over the sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Add the lemon juice, stir and chill. Makes 2 quarts, enough for you and your friends.
Papaya Creamsicle Smoothie
If you can’t find fresh papayas, use canned papaya chunks. Any other summer or exotic fruit works just as well. Try mango, banana, strawberries or a combination that suits your taste and creativity.
2 ripe papayas
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup vanilla yogurt
1 cup ice
Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed until ice is crushed and drink is smooth. Serves 2.
Frozen Frappuccino
Okay, I lied; for this recipe, you need a coffee maker. Any kind will do.
3/4 cup double-strength coffee, cold
2 to 3 tablespoons sugar
1 cup whole or low-fat milk
2 cups ice
Make double-strength coffee by brewing with twice the coffee required by your coffee maker. That should be 2 tablespoons of ground coffee per each cup of coffee. Chill before using.
Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed until ice is crushed and drink is smooth. Pour into 2 large glasses and serve with a straw. Makes 2 “Grande” drinks.
To make a caramel version, add 3 tablespoons caramel ice cream topping to the original recipe and prepare as above. Top with whipped cream and a drizzle of additional caramel over the whipped cream. You just save a couple of dollars.
For a mocha version, add 3 tablespoons chocolate syrup to the original recipe and prepare as above. Top each glass with whipped cream and drizzle of additional chocolate syrup over the whipped cream.
Thursday, June 01, 2006
All Aboard
Under the pretense of cutting my lawn, astride the lawn tractor I’m able to go on a tour of my property. Unless I made a conscious effort to walk every bit of the 2 acres of lawn, gardens, and perimeter of field and woods, I wouldn’t get to see what’s what.
I notice a few very large anthills during my ride. They’ve been there for years. They don’t house the same ants as 10 years ago, but the hills are still there; sort of like underground condos with new tenants. Actually, the average life expectancy of an ant is 2 months.
The sumac trees at the edge of the woods keep coming, no matter how many times I cut them down. I should probably give up. The berries of the sumac are medicinal when steeped in a tea. The Native Americans made a drink from them that tasted like lemonade and was high in vitamin C.
I noticed that the lily of the valley is spreading. Somehow, it jumped over the driveway and is growing amidst the Chinese lanterns. That’s fine. I love their aroma, and they grow in deepest shade where other plants, except weeds of course, will not. They were my mother’s favorite flower, as well.
I also have favorite spots along my ride. I don’t know why I’m so attracted to these places; something about them pleases me so. There’s that spot where a short stonewall ends away into a little slope. If I had tried to purposely create it, I couldn’t have done as well.
There’s another spot behind the large blue spruce, totally shaded from view. It’s a little circular area and above it are wild vines reaching across the trees to make a protective cover and a natural gazebo. There’s nothing to mow there, but I ride over there anyway just to see it.
The large locust tree is where the girls had their first swing. There’s an old rubber toy discarded at its base, faded, but not forgotten. I’ve left it there and love to come upon it when I mow; it brings back wonderful memories.
It takes close to two hours to mow the lawn, but I don’t mind. I catch up on daydreams, I catch the breeze, enjoy the sun and shade depending on the season, and check out the new growth from both the plants and myself.
Szechuan Ants Climb A Tree
Clear bean-thread noodles (also called cellophane noodles) are dressed with a spicy sauce and flecked with bits of pork. Hence the “ants” of this classic Chinese recipe.
Marinade:
3/4-pound ground pork
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
6 ounces bean-thread noodles (cellophane noodles)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes or to taste
1-1/2 cups chicken broth
3 tablespoons sherry (optional)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
Marinate the pork: In a small bowl, combine the pork gently with the vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Marinate for 20 minutes.
In a bowl, soak the noodles in warm water to cover for 15 minutes, drain, and cut them into 3- to 4-inch lengths.
In a wok or large heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it just begins to smoke. Stir-fry 1/4 cup of the scallions, the garlic, and ginger for 30 seconds.
Add the pork and the red pepper flakes and stir-fry the mixture, breaking up the lumps, until the meat is no longer pink.
Add the noodles, broth, sherry, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the noodles have absorbed the liquid.
Transfer the mixture to a platter, drizzle it with the sesame oil and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup scallions. Serves 4 to 6.
I notice a few very large anthills during my ride. They’ve been there for years. They don’t house the same ants as 10 years ago, but the hills are still there; sort of like underground condos with new tenants. Actually, the average life expectancy of an ant is 2 months.
The sumac trees at the edge of the woods keep coming, no matter how many times I cut them down. I should probably give up. The berries of the sumac are medicinal when steeped in a tea. The Native Americans made a drink from them that tasted like lemonade and was high in vitamin C.
I noticed that the lily of the valley is spreading. Somehow, it jumped over the driveway and is growing amidst the Chinese lanterns. That’s fine. I love their aroma, and they grow in deepest shade where other plants, except weeds of course, will not. They were my mother’s favorite flower, as well.
I also have favorite spots along my ride. I don’t know why I’m so attracted to these places; something about them pleases me so. There’s that spot where a short stonewall ends away into a little slope. If I had tried to purposely create it, I couldn’t have done as well.
There’s another spot behind the large blue spruce, totally shaded from view. It’s a little circular area and above it are wild vines reaching across the trees to make a protective cover and a natural gazebo. There’s nothing to mow there, but I ride over there anyway just to see it.
The large locust tree is where the girls had their first swing. There’s an old rubber toy discarded at its base, faded, but not forgotten. I’ve left it there and love to come upon it when I mow; it brings back wonderful memories.
It takes close to two hours to mow the lawn, but I don’t mind. I catch up on daydreams, I catch the breeze, enjoy the sun and shade depending on the season, and check out the new growth from both the plants and myself.
Szechuan Ants Climb A Tree
Clear bean-thread noodles (also called cellophane noodles) are dressed with a spicy sauce and flecked with bits of pork. Hence the “ants” of this classic Chinese recipe.
Marinade:
3/4-pound ground pork
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
6 ounces bean-thread noodles (cellophane noodles)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes or to taste
1-1/2 cups chicken broth
3 tablespoons sherry (optional)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
Marinate the pork: In a small bowl, combine the pork gently with the vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Marinate for 20 minutes.
In a bowl, soak the noodles in warm water to cover for 15 minutes, drain, and cut them into 3- to 4-inch lengths.
In a wok or large heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it just begins to smoke. Stir-fry 1/4 cup of the scallions, the garlic, and ginger for 30 seconds.
Add the pork and the red pepper flakes and stir-fry the mixture, breaking up the lumps, until the meat is no longer pink.
Add the noodles, broth, sherry, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the noodles have absorbed the liquid.
Transfer the mixture to a platter, drizzle it with the sesame oil and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup scallions. Serves 4 to 6.
Friday, May 26, 2006
Mixing It Up
Chances are that if the NSA has been monitoring phone calls, they sure must be monitoring emails and pouring through newspapers gathering information.
Therefore, since they’re listening, I’d like to tell them, “HEY. STOP IT! And, while I have their attention, I’d just like to say that I really, really don’t like this administration and the reasons are too numerous to list. There!
Oh, and one more thing: last week a friend gave me a recipe for All-American apple pie and I think I wrote down the wrong amount of flour. So, could you please go through my phone calls for May 17 and check how much flour I was supposed to use? Thanks.”
I would call my friend back, but she’s unavailable now; I think she’s in Guantanamo. Apparently leaking info on apple pie recipes is considered an infraction of the Patriot Act.
While I’m on the subject, has anyone noticed that ever since Bush’s re-election in November the color-coded alerts have disappeared?
All this brings me to salad dressings. (You have to figure out why.) I love salads and I love trying new dressing concoctions along with old stand-by and traditional dressings.
Since we never question mixing from scratch new dressings, why not make homemade classics. They’re really quite easy to whip up. All the ingredients are right there in your pantry.
The reason I started doing this is because my all-time favorite dressing, Green Goddess, seems to have been taken off the shelves. I found a recipe, tweaked it a little, and now make my own. After that, making homemade Thousand Island, French, and Russian dressing was as easy as tossed salad.
The best part of making homemade dressing is that you eliminate all those awful additives the commercial companies put into the dressing, and you could make the recipe more or less to your particular taste.
Green Goddess-Chive Dressing
The original Green Goddess dressing recipe includes anchovies. I like anchovies as much as I like President Bush, therefore you won’t find it in this recipe. However, if you’re anchovy-prone feel free to add 6 finely chopped anchovy fillets to the ingredients when blending. I also added chives to this recipe just because the chives in my herb garden are in mass now.
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup sour cream (or plain yogurt)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh chives
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon or white vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Combine all ingredients in a blender container and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate. Makes about 1- 1/3 cup.
Russian Dressing
In my house, this dressing is mandatory on a turkey sandwich.
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup chili sauce or ketchup
2 tablespoons finely minced pimiento-stuffed olives
1 tablespoon finely minced green bell pepper
1 tablespoon minced chives
1 chopped hard-cooked egg
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley
In a small bowl, blend all ingredients together. Makes about 1- 1/2 cups.
Lime-Cilantro Dressing
This is my second favorite dressing. I once purchased a very expensive jar of this dressing, never to find it again. I saved the ingredient label, and after much trial and error, came up with a very close replica.
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup rice or cider vinegar
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup minced red bell pepper
1/4 cup honey
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons lime juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.
Combine all ingredients in a blender container and blend until cilantro is chopped finely but not entirely puréed. Cover and chill. Makes about 1- 1/2 cups.
Therefore, since they’re listening, I’d like to tell them, “HEY. STOP IT! And, while I have their attention, I’d just like to say that I really, really don’t like this administration and the reasons are too numerous to list. There!
Oh, and one more thing: last week a friend gave me a recipe for All-American apple pie and I think I wrote down the wrong amount of flour. So, could you please go through my phone calls for May 17 and check how much flour I was supposed to use? Thanks.”
I would call my friend back, but she’s unavailable now; I think she’s in Guantanamo. Apparently leaking info on apple pie recipes is considered an infraction of the Patriot Act.
While I’m on the subject, has anyone noticed that ever since Bush’s re-election in November the color-coded alerts have disappeared?
All this brings me to salad dressings. (You have to figure out why.) I love salads and I love trying new dressing concoctions along with old stand-by and traditional dressings.
Since we never question mixing from scratch new dressings, why not make homemade classics. They’re really quite easy to whip up. All the ingredients are right there in your pantry.
The reason I started doing this is because my all-time favorite dressing, Green Goddess, seems to have been taken off the shelves. I found a recipe, tweaked it a little, and now make my own. After that, making homemade Thousand Island, French, and Russian dressing was as easy as tossed salad.
The best part of making homemade dressing is that you eliminate all those awful additives the commercial companies put into the dressing, and you could make the recipe more or less to your particular taste.
Green Goddess-Chive Dressing
The original Green Goddess dressing recipe includes anchovies. I like anchovies as much as I like President Bush, therefore you won’t find it in this recipe. However, if you’re anchovy-prone feel free to add 6 finely chopped anchovy fillets to the ingredients when blending. I also added chives to this recipe just because the chives in my herb garden are in mass now.
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup sour cream (or plain yogurt)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh chives
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon or white vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Combine all ingredients in a blender container and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate. Makes about 1- 1/3 cup.
Russian Dressing
In my house, this dressing is mandatory on a turkey sandwich.
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup chili sauce or ketchup
2 tablespoons finely minced pimiento-stuffed olives
1 tablespoon finely minced green bell pepper
1 tablespoon minced chives
1 chopped hard-cooked egg
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley
In a small bowl, blend all ingredients together. Makes about 1- 1/2 cups.
Lime-Cilantro Dressing
This is my second favorite dressing. I once purchased a very expensive jar of this dressing, never to find it again. I saved the ingredient label, and after much trial and error, came up with a very close replica.
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup rice or cider vinegar
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup minced red bell pepper
1/4 cup honey
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons lime juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.
Combine all ingredients in a blender container and blend until cilantro is chopped finely but not entirely puréed. Cover and chill. Makes about 1- 1/2 cups.
Wednesday, May 17, 2006
Made with Lovage
Every day brings change in the garden in the spring. You could almost watch the buds bursting open, and seedlings inch their way toward the sun and its warmth.
Just last week, I was raking autumn’s leaf debris off my herb garden exposing tiny new growth peeking out of the ground. Today, my lovage is in full growth, and the chives are brandishing little pink flowers on their tips.
The lovage has been the best addition to my herb garden. I honestly don’t know how I managed without it all those years. I certainly can’t make tuna salad without it; its addition is essential.
For those not familiar with lovage, this tall herb is in the parsley family, but is similar in taste to celery with a hint of lemon and fennel.
Lovage originates in Southern Europe and was one of the most prominent flavors in Ancient Roman cooking. In Germany, lovage is used often to flavor potato salads.
I only use the lovage leaf from my garden, though the seeds of the flowers are used as a spice as well. In fact, what is sold as “celery seed” is often partially or entirely ground lovage seed.
The seeds are used to flavor breads, potatoes, dressings, salads, and cordials.
The leaves are used in cheeses, eggs (it’s wonderful in an omelet), salads, stews, and with chicken.
In Turkey, they make a meatloaf using allspice, garlic and lovage ground with the meat, which is then served with yogurt and mint.
Lovage leaves can be used in any recipe that calls for celery leaves, just use less, as lovage is twice as strong in flavor as celery.
If you find lovage seeds for sale in your garden center, snatch them up. This old timey herb plant will add new timey taste to your dishes.
In lieu of a recipe for tuna salad, which needs no recipe, here is one for a rich clam chowder using lovage. Prepare to be blown away. You will lovage this.
Lovage Clam Chowder
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup of chopped onions
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup vermouth
2 cups heavy or light cream
1 large potato, grated (1 cup)
1 cup clam juice
1 cup fresh lovage leaves
1 cup chopped scallions
1 cup minced clams
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Sauté the onions and garlic in butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat just until softened, but not browned.
Add the vermouth, cream, potato, and clam juice. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook just long enough to soften the potatoes, about 20 minutes. Do not let it come to a full boil.
Add the lovage and scallions to a blender container. Pour the soup base on top of the herbs and blend until smooth. Pour back into the pot, and when you are ready to serve add the clams and gently reheat the soup. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
Peas and Carrots Salad
1 pound fresh peas
1- 1/2 pounds carrots, sliced
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 tablespoon plain yogurt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1- 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh lovage leaves
Combine carrots with peas and steam for no more than 15 minutes. Cool slightly.
Mix together the mayonnaise and yogurt. Add Dijon mustard, and fold in the lovage, followed by the steamed peas and carrots. Allow to cool completely before serving. Serves 4.
Just last week, I was raking autumn’s leaf debris off my herb garden exposing tiny new growth peeking out of the ground. Today, my lovage is in full growth, and the chives are brandishing little pink flowers on their tips.
The lovage has been the best addition to my herb garden. I honestly don’t know how I managed without it all those years. I certainly can’t make tuna salad without it; its addition is essential.
For those not familiar with lovage, this tall herb is in the parsley family, but is similar in taste to celery with a hint of lemon and fennel.
Lovage originates in Southern Europe and was one of the most prominent flavors in Ancient Roman cooking. In Germany, lovage is used often to flavor potato salads.
I only use the lovage leaf from my garden, though the seeds of the flowers are used as a spice as well. In fact, what is sold as “celery seed” is often partially or entirely ground lovage seed.
The seeds are used to flavor breads, potatoes, dressings, salads, and cordials.
The leaves are used in cheeses, eggs (it’s wonderful in an omelet), salads, stews, and with chicken.
In Turkey, they make a meatloaf using allspice, garlic and lovage ground with the meat, which is then served with yogurt and mint.
Lovage leaves can be used in any recipe that calls for celery leaves, just use less, as lovage is twice as strong in flavor as celery.
If you find lovage seeds for sale in your garden center, snatch them up. This old timey herb plant will add new timey taste to your dishes.
In lieu of a recipe for tuna salad, which needs no recipe, here is one for a rich clam chowder using lovage. Prepare to be blown away. You will lovage this.
Lovage Clam Chowder
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup of chopped onions
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup vermouth
2 cups heavy or light cream
1 large potato, grated (1 cup)
1 cup clam juice
1 cup fresh lovage leaves
1 cup chopped scallions
1 cup minced clams
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Sauté the onions and garlic in butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat just until softened, but not browned.
Add the vermouth, cream, potato, and clam juice. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook just long enough to soften the potatoes, about 20 minutes. Do not let it come to a full boil.
Add the lovage and scallions to a blender container. Pour the soup base on top of the herbs and blend until smooth. Pour back into the pot, and when you are ready to serve add the clams and gently reheat the soup. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
Peas and Carrots Salad
1 pound fresh peas
1- 1/2 pounds carrots, sliced
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 tablespoon plain yogurt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1- 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh lovage leaves
Combine carrots with peas and steam for no more than 15 minutes. Cool slightly.
Mix together the mayonnaise and yogurt. Add Dijon mustard, and fold in the lovage, followed by the steamed peas and carrots. Allow to cool completely before serving. Serves 4.
Thursday, May 11, 2006
At a Turtle's Pace
My house and my life is filled to capacity with cookbooks and collected loose recipes, which, when I’m feeling organized, are placed in categorized folders.
The problem is that when I find and create a dish from one of those recipes and wish later on to make it again, I can’t remember which book or folder it came from.
Enter my winter project. Yes, I know winter is over; alas, my project continues. My winter project consisted of creating my own personal index of recipes in my house, whether they are in cookbooks or folders.
As time and incentive permitted, I would grab a cookbook from one of my cookbook shelves (I have four of these in four different rooms of my house), leaf through it, and mark down which recipe sounded good and what page of what book it was found.
It’s very interesting going through these cookbooks. Some look totally unfamiliar to me. We all make impulsive cookbook purchases. We get the book home, glance through it and put it on a shelf, never to open it again. Who knows what amazing recipes lie within?
Some other books are very old and once were standards, but were later on replaced by new favorites. Going through them brings back fond and not-so-fond memories of wonderful successes and also disastrous results. That eggplant and yogurt soup I made back in 1979 from the “Best of Middle Eastern Cooking” comes to mind.
I did find that long-lost potato croquette recipe from what was once my mom’s Italian cookbook passed on to me. Oh sure, it was a simple recipe with few ingredients, but replicating it without the actual recipe, I worried I wasn’t doing it quite right. It turns out I wasn’t. Breadcrumbs aren’t mixed into the mashed potatoes, just used to coat the croquettes. No wonder they seemed kind of dense.
One classic cookbook, “Amy Vanderbilt’s Complete Cookbook,” a compendium of every possible recipe including loads of valuable information, had a listing of cheeses and their uses. Blatantly missing was one of my favorite cheeses, feta. How interesting that in 1961 feta cheese was unfamiliar to American cooks. The cookbook lacked feta cheese, but did include a recipe for those turtle candies I love. Now, that’s a find! I marked that one down in my recipe list.
So, this past winter, carrying over into spring, and most probably carrying me through and beyond summer, I have been getting reacquainted with my old and new cookbooks. Each one is so different, just like the people you meet in life. Even the ones that don’t seem to have much to offer will inevitably have one or two priceless recipes or qualities making their place on my bookshelf, and in my life, guaranteed.
Amy Vanderbilt’s Chocolate-Caramel Turtles
1-pound package of caramels (54)
2 tablespoons water
3/4 pound cashew nuts
One 6-ounce package semi-sweet chocolate chips
Heat caramels and water in the top of a double boiler over boiling water for about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally until evenly melted.
Grease a baking sheet. Arrange 36 groups of 4 cashews each, about 2-inches apart on sheet. Drop melted caramels by teaspoons on each group of nuts, letting some of the nut remain uncovered by caramel. Let cool 15 minutes. Reheat caramel over boiling water if it starts to solidify mid-way.
Melt chocolate chips over hot, not boiling water. Drop by teaspoons on top of each caramel turtle; spread chocolate if necessary with spatula. Set in cool, dry place until firm. Makes 36 turtles.
I found Amy Vanderbilt’s comment under the recipe amusing: “All children love to make and eat these.”
Yeah, and so do the grown-ups!
The problem is that when I find and create a dish from one of those recipes and wish later on to make it again, I can’t remember which book or folder it came from.
Enter my winter project. Yes, I know winter is over; alas, my project continues. My winter project consisted of creating my own personal index of recipes in my house, whether they are in cookbooks or folders.
As time and incentive permitted, I would grab a cookbook from one of my cookbook shelves (I have four of these in four different rooms of my house), leaf through it, and mark down which recipe sounded good and what page of what book it was found.
It’s very interesting going through these cookbooks. Some look totally unfamiliar to me. We all make impulsive cookbook purchases. We get the book home, glance through it and put it on a shelf, never to open it again. Who knows what amazing recipes lie within?
Some other books are very old and once were standards, but were later on replaced by new favorites. Going through them brings back fond and not-so-fond memories of wonderful successes and also disastrous results. That eggplant and yogurt soup I made back in 1979 from the “Best of Middle Eastern Cooking” comes to mind.
I did find that long-lost potato croquette recipe from what was once my mom’s Italian cookbook passed on to me. Oh sure, it was a simple recipe with few ingredients, but replicating it without the actual recipe, I worried I wasn’t doing it quite right. It turns out I wasn’t. Breadcrumbs aren’t mixed into the mashed potatoes, just used to coat the croquettes. No wonder they seemed kind of dense.
One classic cookbook, “Amy Vanderbilt’s Complete Cookbook,” a compendium of every possible recipe including loads of valuable information, had a listing of cheeses and their uses. Blatantly missing was one of my favorite cheeses, feta. How interesting that in 1961 feta cheese was unfamiliar to American cooks. The cookbook lacked feta cheese, but did include a recipe for those turtle candies I love. Now, that’s a find! I marked that one down in my recipe list.
So, this past winter, carrying over into spring, and most probably carrying me through and beyond summer, I have been getting reacquainted with my old and new cookbooks. Each one is so different, just like the people you meet in life. Even the ones that don’t seem to have much to offer will inevitably have one or two priceless recipes or qualities making their place on my bookshelf, and in my life, guaranteed.
Amy Vanderbilt’s Chocolate-Caramel Turtles
1-pound package of caramels (54)
2 tablespoons water
3/4 pound cashew nuts
One 6-ounce package semi-sweet chocolate chips
Heat caramels and water in the top of a double boiler over boiling water for about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally until evenly melted.
Grease a baking sheet. Arrange 36 groups of 4 cashews each, about 2-inches apart on sheet. Drop melted caramels by teaspoons on each group of nuts, letting some of the nut remain uncovered by caramel. Let cool 15 minutes. Reheat caramel over boiling water if it starts to solidify mid-way.
Melt chocolate chips over hot, not boiling water. Drop by teaspoons on top of each caramel turtle; spread chocolate if necessary with spatula. Set in cool, dry place until firm. Makes 36 turtles.
I found Amy Vanderbilt’s comment under the recipe amusing: “All children love to make and eat these.”
Yeah, and so do the grown-ups!
Thursday, May 04, 2006
Here's the Pitch
Other than always having my eyeglasses with me, my next most important accoutrement is a notepad and pencil; mostly because I’m forever forgetting important things, and secondly to jot down “grand” ideas.”
There’s a notepad handy in every room of my house, in all my purses, coat pockets, and car glove compartments.
Quite a lot of these columns have been written with a premise I have jotted down one of my trusty notepads. I think you know the ones.
The problem is that when I jot down an idea, I do it quickly and with the barest minimum of words. When I reread the note, I haven’t a clue what I meant to say, such as when I found a note that said fish lic.
Here some other notes I’ve found; if you have any idea what I was talking about, please let me know:
hooverphonics
Tom Paine – not now
2 trees & a bird
a fungi at a wedding – mushgroom
termites eat through wood 2 x faster when listening to rock music
It’s not entirely during waking hours that I do all my note-taking. I sometimes wake in the middle of a dream with a grand idea. I’ll even tell myself in the dream, “wake up and jot this down; it’s a terrific idea.”
I always listen to myself, and did so just the other night. While in the midst of a dream, I had a grand idea for a sitcom. I followed my advice, woke up, and wrote it down quickly. I was going to email the idea to my daughter in California, because who else would appreciate the idea for a sitcom in the middle of the night but someone in California; but I didn’t. I waited until morning, mostly because I forgot about the grand idea and only saw it on the notepad lying by the computer when I went to check email.
The idea came back to me and I quickly emailed my daughter the sitcom pitch. Here’s what I found on my notepad:
high rent cost
NYC
2 couples (1 w/baby) share a 1-bedroom apartment
1 couple works nights
1 couple works days
briefly their time in the apartment overlaps
hilarious
It’s been days since I emailed the pitch and haven’t received a reply. I can only assume that the email just didn’t go through. That darn server!
California Breakfast Croissants with Good Mornay Sauce
1 teaspoon vinegar
4 eggs
2 croissants, halved and lightly toasted
4 slices tomato
1/2 avocado, sliced
8 slices of cooked bacon
Mornay Sauce:
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons flour
1- 1/2 cups milk
1/4 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Make Mornay sauce: Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and stir until bubbly. Gradually stir in milk. Cook, stirring constantly until mixture comes to a boil. Continue cooking until thickened. Stir in cheeses, mustard, salt and pepper. Remove from heat and continue stirring until cheese melts. Keep warm as you cook the eggs.
Fill deep skillet with about 1-2 inches of water. Add vinegar; bring to a simmer. (Adding vinegar to the water helps keep the egg whites intact while poaching.)
Break 1 egg into shallow cup or sauce. Gently slide the egg into the simmering water. Repeat with remaining eggs. Cook eggs 3-4 minutes or until set. Carefully remove eggs with a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels.
Place croissant half on each plate. Layer tomato slice, avocado slice, and poached egg on croissant. Drizzle with Mornay sauce and top with 2 slices of cooked bacon. Garnish with chives if you like. Serves 4.
There’s a notepad handy in every room of my house, in all my purses, coat pockets, and car glove compartments.
Quite a lot of these columns have been written with a premise I have jotted down one of my trusty notepads. I think you know the ones.
The problem is that when I jot down an idea, I do it quickly and with the barest minimum of words. When I reread the note, I haven’t a clue what I meant to say, such as when I found a note that said fish lic.
Here some other notes I’ve found; if you have any idea what I was talking about, please let me know:
hooverphonics
Tom Paine – not now
2 trees & a bird
a fungi at a wedding – mushgroom
termites eat through wood 2 x faster when listening to rock music
It’s not entirely during waking hours that I do all my note-taking. I sometimes wake in the middle of a dream with a grand idea. I’ll even tell myself in the dream, “wake up and jot this down; it’s a terrific idea.”
I always listen to myself, and did so just the other night. While in the midst of a dream, I had a grand idea for a sitcom. I followed my advice, woke up, and wrote it down quickly. I was going to email the idea to my daughter in California, because who else would appreciate the idea for a sitcom in the middle of the night but someone in California; but I didn’t. I waited until morning, mostly because I forgot about the grand idea and only saw it on the notepad lying by the computer when I went to check email.
The idea came back to me and I quickly emailed my daughter the sitcom pitch. Here’s what I found on my notepad:
high rent cost
NYC
2 couples (1 w/baby) share a 1-bedroom apartment
1 couple works nights
1 couple works days
briefly their time in the apartment overlaps
hilarious
It’s been days since I emailed the pitch and haven’t received a reply. I can only assume that the email just didn’t go through. That darn server!
California Breakfast Croissants with Good Mornay Sauce
1 teaspoon vinegar
4 eggs
2 croissants, halved and lightly toasted
4 slices tomato
1/2 avocado, sliced
8 slices of cooked bacon
Mornay Sauce:
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons flour
1- 1/2 cups milk
1/4 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Make Mornay sauce: Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and stir until bubbly. Gradually stir in milk. Cook, stirring constantly until mixture comes to a boil. Continue cooking until thickened. Stir in cheeses, mustard, salt and pepper. Remove from heat and continue stirring until cheese melts. Keep warm as you cook the eggs.
Fill deep skillet with about 1-2 inches of water. Add vinegar; bring to a simmer. (Adding vinegar to the water helps keep the egg whites intact while poaching.)
Break 1 egg into shallow cup or sauce. Gently slide the egg into the simmering water. Repeat with remaining eggs. Cook eggs 3-4 minutes or until set. Carefully remove eggs with a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels.
Place croissant half on each plate. Layer tomato slice, avocado slice, and poached egg on croissant. Drizzle with Mornay sauce and top with 2 slices of cooked bacon. Garnish with chives if you like. Serves 4.
Thursday, April 27, 2006
Make A Face
This week marks an important birthday. On April 30, 1952 Mr. Potato Head was born. He originally arrived with a styrofoam head, accessories for making your very own face, and suggestions to use fresh fruit and vegetables instead of the styrofoam.
Children in the inner cities, including myself, didn’t understand the fresh fruit and vegetable part, so we used the styrofoam over and over until it fell apart.
The next year, Mr. Potato Head met and married Mrs. Potato Head. Brother Spud and Sister Yam soon followed. I remember Mrs. Potato Head because I was thrilled with the jewelry and purses included in the accessories, but I don’t recall the potato children at all.
A few years later, realizing the styrofoam wasn’t working too well, Hasbro substituted a plastic body in the kit.
Mr. Potato Head pursued a political career, getting four write-in votes in the 1985 mayoral election in Boise, Idaho.
He also became politically correct when the American Cancer Society convinced Hasbro to eliminate the pipe from the accessory kit. When he quit smoking in 1987, he became the official “spokespud” for the American Cancer Society’s Great American Smokeout.
When the last Star Wars movie was released last year, Hasbro created a new version of Mr. Potato Head called Darth Tater. Princess Tater should be released this month.
There’s a lot to be said about the popularity of potatoes. It’s difficult to make cream of potato soup without potatoes, and when you’re not sure what side dish to serve, potatoes come to the rescue. You can’t go wrong with garlic-mashed potatoes or steak fries. And, don’t get me started on potato salad!
So, happy birthday, Mr. Potato Head, and may the force be with you.
Potato and Cheese Croquettes
When I was a child, I was thrilled when we had leftover mashed potatoes, because that meant that my mom would be making potato croquettes the next day. Hers were a simple affair, made with leftover mashed potatoes, Parmesan cheese, eggs, and breadcrumbs. This recipe is a bit updated with the addition of Gruyere cheese. Other cheese works just as well. Use gouda or cheddar, if you like. If you have leftover mashed potatoes, you could eliminate the step of sautéing potatoes and onion from scratch.
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup vegetable oil
One large russet potato, unpeeled and cubed
1 small onion, chopped
1- 1/4 cups packed grated Gruyere or Swiss cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or 2 teaspoons dried
1- 1/2 tablespoons minced bread and butter pickles (optional)
1 large egg yolk
2 large eggs
3 cups breadcrumbs
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add potato and onion. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Sauté until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
Transfer to a bowl. Cool completely. Mix next 4 ingredients into potato mixture. Using moistened hands, form about 1/4 cup of the mixture into a log 3x1-inches long. Chill until firm, about 1 hour. This helps with dipping the croquettes in egg and breadcrumb.
Whisk eggs in medium bowl. Place breadcrumbs in pie dish. Dip each croquette into eggs, then coat with breadcrumbs, pressing to adhere. Chill 1 hour. Heat 1/2 cup oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add croquettes to skillet and cook until crisp and golden brown, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and drain. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes about 10 croquettes.
Children in the inner cities, including myself, didn’t understand the fresh fruit and vegetable part, so we used the styrofoam over and over until it fell apart.
The next year, Mr. Potato Head met and married Mrs. Potato Head. Brother Spud and Sister Yam soon followed. I remember Mrs. Potato Head because I was thrilled with the jewelry and purses included in the accessories, but I don’t recall the potato children at all.
A few years later, realizing the styrofoam wasn’t working too well, Hasbro substituted a plastic body in the kit.
Mr. Potato Head pursued a political career, getting four write-in votes in the 1985 mayoral election in Boise, Idaho.
He also became politically correct when the American Cancer Society convinced Hasbro to eliminate the pipe from the accessory kit. When he quit smoking in 1987, he became the official “spokespud” for the American Cancer Society’s Great American Smokeout.
When the last Star Wars movie was released last year, Hasbro created a new version of Mr. Potato Head called Darth Tater. Princess Tater should be released this month.
There’s a lot to be said about the popularity of potatoes. It’s difficult to make cream of potato soup without potatoes, and when you’re not sure what side dish to serve, potatoes come to the rescue. You can’t go wrong with garlic-mashed potatoes or steak fries. And, don’t get me started on potato salad!
So, happy birthday, Mr. Potato Head, and may the force be with you.
Potato and Cheese Croquettes
When I was a child, I was thrilled when we had leftover mashed potatoes, because that meant that my mom would be making potato croquettes the next day. Hers were a simple affair, made with leftover mashed potatoes, Parmesan cheese, eggs, and breadcrumbs. This recipe is a bit updated with the addition of Gruyere cheese. Other cheese works just as well. Use gouda or cheddar, if you like. If you have leftover mashed potatoes, you could eliminate the step of sautéing potatoes and onion from scratch.
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup vegetable oil
One large russet potato, unpeeled and cubed
1 small onion, chopped
1- 1/4 cups packed grated Gruyere or Swiss cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or 2 teaspoons dried
1- 1/2 tablespoons minced bread and butter pickles (optional)
1 large egg yolk
2 large eggs
3 cups breadcrumbs
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add potato and onion. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Sauté until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
Transfer to a bowl. Cool completely. Mix next 4 ingredients into potato mixture. Using moistened hands, form about 1/4 cup of the mixture into a log 3x1-inches long. Chill until firm, about 1 hour. This helps with dipping the croquettes in egg and breadcrumb.
Whisk eggs in medium bowl. Place breadcrumbs in pie dish. Dip each croquette into eggs, then coat with breadcrumbs, pressing to adhere. Chill 1 hour. Heat 1/2 cup oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add croquettes to skillet and cook until crisp and golden brown, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and drain. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes about 10 croquettes.
Thursday, April 20, 2006
The Yolks on You!
Passover and Easter have come and gone, and in their wake, we are left with a multitude of hard-cooked eggs—that symbol of life, fertility, and hope everlasting.
The woeful egg has come under attack over the years for being too abundant in cholesterol. However, things have calmed down, and now it is okay to indulge—in moderation, that is.
I happen to like eggs when cooked properly and tastefully, and have pretty much pooh-poohed the medical profession’s warning on eating too many eggs—one a week and all that. Go ahead, turn me in; it is worth it—omelets, soufflés, custards, waffles—I eat them all.
I’ve always wondered about the brave soul who first had the idea to eat an egg. Let’s face it, cracked and placed on a dish as is; it’s not very appealing.
Authorities on the subject claim that as early as 1500 B.C. the Chinese bred chickens for sport and food. What they prized were the roosters for cock fights. The hens were kept caged to lay eggs to produce more roosters.
Somewhere along the way, someone wise and daring ate one of those eggs and found it to be delicious.
If a hen were left to her own devices, she would probably lay only one brood of eggs in the spring of the year, and no more.
Normally, a hen will produce only one egg per day, but the prudent farmer promptly takes the single egg from the hen and ships it to market. The hen, trying to accumulate her brood, keeps replacing the lost one with another. She has hope eternal welling up in her tender naïve breast. How cruel the modern farmer—he tricks the hen with lights that resemble sunlight, and steals her eggs, forcing the hen to lay more eggs than fowlly possible.
So, here we are with all these eggs; some gaily colored and hard-boiled, and some just plain old hard-boiled. What to do? Eat them, of course. And, here’s how.
Warm Asparagus with Eggs Mimosa
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
1 shallot, minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2- 1/4 pounds asparagus spears
In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, olive oil, salt and pepper. Set the vinaigrette aside.
Press the cooked and peeled eggs through a coarse sieve into a bowl, or chop them by hand. Set aside.
Snap off the tough stem ends from the asparagus spears and discard. Using a vegetable peeled, peel the bottom 3 inches of each asparagus spear to remove tough outer skin. (If your asparagus spears are pencil thin, you don’t need to peel the bottoms.) Bring a large skillet pan filled with salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus; reduce the heat to medium and cook just until tender, 4 to 6 minutes.
Using tongs, carefully transfer the asparagus to a double thickness of paper towels to drain briefly, then arrange the spears on a warmed platter or on individual plates. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the warm asparagus, distributing it evenly. Sprinkle the eggs over the center of the asparagus spears and serve immediately. Serves 6.
Tuna, Tomato and Olive Sandwich
This sandwich is essentially a salade niçoise on a roll, a specialty of Nice. In fact, niçoise means, “As prepared in Nice.” Fillings may vary, but tuna is nearly always included, as are tomatoes and olive. It is sold from storefront sandwich shops along the Promenade des Anglais bordering the Mediterranean.
4 large round chewy bread rolls
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
4 ounces water or oil-packed tuna
1 green bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced
12 anchovy fillets
16 pitted niçoise (oil-cured) olives
4 to 6 lettuce leaves
Slice the rolls in half horizontally. Sprinkle the cut sides evenly with the olive oil and vinegar.
Drain the tuna and place it in a bowl. Using a fork, flake the tuna into smallish pieces. Divide evenly among the bottom halves of the rolls. Then evenly divide the bell pepper, tomatoes, eggs, anchovy fillets, and olive among them. Cover the filling with the lettuce. Put the roll tops in place and serve. Serves 4.
The woeful egg has come under attack over the years for being too abundant in cholesterol. However, things have calmed down, and now it is okay to indulge—in moderation, that is.
I happen to like eggs when cooked properly and tastefully, and have pretty much pooh-poohed the medical profession’s warning on eating too many eggs—one a week and all that. Go ahead, turn me in; it is worth it—omelets, soufflés, custards, waffles—I eat them all.
I’ve always wondered about the brave soul who first had the idea to eat an egg. Let’s face it, cracked and placed on a dish as is; it’s not very appealing.
Authorities on the subject claim that as early as 1500 B.C. the Chinese bred chickens for sport and food. What they prized were the roosters for cock fights. The hens were kept caged to lay eggs to produce more roosters.
Somewhere along the way, someone wise and daring ate one of those eggs and found it to be delicious.
If a hen were left to her own devices, she would probably lay only one brood of eggs in the spring of the year, and no more.
Normally, a hen will produce only one egg per day, but the prudent farmer promptly takes the single egg from the hen and ships it to market. The hen, trying to accumulate her brood, keeps replacing the lost one with another. She has hope eternal welling up in her tender naïve breast. How cruel the modern farmer—he tricks the hen with lights that resemble sunlight, and steals her eggs, forcing the hen to lay more eggs than fowlly possible.
So, here we are with all these eggs; some gaily colored and hard-boiled, and some just plain old hard-boiled. What to do? Eat them, of course. And, here’s how.
Warm Asparagus with Eggs Mimosa
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
1 shallot, minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2- 1/4 pounds asparagus spears
In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, olive oil, salt and pepper. Set the vinaigrette aside.
Press the cooked and peeled eggs through a coarse sieve into a bowl, or chop them by hand. Set aside.
Snap off the tough stem ends from the asparagus spears and discard. Using a vegetable peeled, peel the bottom 3 inches of each asparagus spear to remove tough outer skin. (If your asparagus spears are pencil thin, you don’t need to peel the bottoms.) Bring a large skillet pan filled with salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus; reduce the heat to medium and cook just until tender, 4 to 6 minutes.
Using tongs, carefully transfer the asparagus to a double thickness of paper towels to drain briefly, then arrange the spears on a warmed platter or on individual plates. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the warm asparagus, distributing it evenly. Sprinkle the eggs over the center of the asparagus spears and serve immediately. Serves 6.
Tuna, Tomato and Olive Sandwich
This sandwich is essentially a salade niçoise on a roll, a specialty of Nice. In fact, niçoise means, “As prepared in Nice.” Fillings may vary, but tuna is nearly always included, as are tomatoes and olive. It is sold from storefront sandwich shops along the Promenade des Anglais bordering the Mediterranean.
4 large round chewy bread rolls
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
4 ounces water or oil-packed tuna
1 green bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced
12 anchovy fillets
16 pitted niçoise (oil-cured) olives
4 to 6 lettuce leaves
Slice the rolls in half horizontally. Sprinkle the cut sides evenly with the olive oil and vinegar.
Drain the tuna and place it in a bowl. Using a fork, flake the tuna into smallish pieces. Divide evenly among the bottom halves of the rolls. Then evenly divide the bell pepper, tomatoes, eggs, anchovy fillets, and olive among them. Cover the filling with the lettuce. Put the roll tops in place and serve. Serves 4.
Thursday, April 13, 2006
Baking Easter Memories
Spring heralds a host of religious holidays, and just as budding flowers and trees rejoice in physical rebirth, Easter celebrates hope and the renewal of the spirit.
Foods and specialty dishes are an integral part of holidays, and Easter has some wonderful ones. The Italians prepare wonderful rustic and savory pies for Easter, such as pizza rustica di pasqua, which is ham, salami and mozzarella cheese filled pie. Don’t let the word pizza confuse you; pizza means pie in Italian. Another pie is pizza di scarola, an escarole pie, and one of my favorites. On the sweet side is the ricotta pie and grain pie.
The Italian grain pie is made with soft wheat berries, and though it doesn’t sound very appetizing, it is not to be missed. All my life, I always thought the little nibs in the pie were tapioca, since it looked just like tapioca. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I discovered the grain in the pie were wheat berries.
The English have their Easter specialty, as well. Hot cross buns have been associated with Easter since Tudor times when they were traditionally made on Good Friday to be eaten over the holiday weekend.
Every family has their own recipe for these sweet breads, but I love them when they are filled with currants and glacéed fruit.
The French have a rich dessert called blancmange, which is a molded custard thickened with ground almonds, and flavored with kirsch. This recipe has been found in mediaeval manuscripts.
In Russia, a nut and fruit-filled yeast cake called kulich is served during Easter. The classic kulich contains glacéed fruit, almonds, and raisins.
This sweet bread is baked in a special pan that is tall and cylindrical like a coffee can. When the cake is finished baking, it is decorated with white frosting drizzled down the sides. On the side, spelled out in pieces of glacéed fruit, were the letter XB, representing the Cyrillic letters for “Christos voskres” (Christ is risen).
Accompanying the kulich is a sweet cheese spread called paskha, which is carefully molded in a triangular shape. The letters XB are also inscribed on this creation.
Whichever sweet or savory bread you’re baking this Easter, may your holiday be filled with the love of family and friends, and may this spring raise your spirits.
Russian Easter Kulich
2 1/2 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons yeast
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup butter
1 egg
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup currants
1 tablespoon rum or sherry
1/4 cup slivered almonds
Glaze:
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1- 1/2 teaspoons milk
Butter a 2-lb. coffee can. Fold a double sheet of aluminum foil around the top of the can to extend it about 2 inches.
Soak raisins and currants in the sherry for about 1/2 hour before beginning dough.
Combine yeast, 1 cup flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl of an electric mixer. Heat milk and butter until butter is melted and mixture is very warm, but not boiling. Pour milk mixture into dry ingredients with mixer slowly running, then beat until smooth. Beat in eggs, egg yolks, and lemon zest. Gradually add remaining flour, beating well after each addition. Beat in almonds and sherry-soaked raisins and currants.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and satiny. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Shape dough into a ball and place in the greased 2-pound coffee can. Loosely cover top of can with plastic wrap or foil and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, or until dough almost reaches the top of the can.
Bake in a preheated 400° oven for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350° and continue baking for another 35 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean and the loaf sounds hollow when thumped. Let cool on a wire rack, remove from can after about 10 minutes and let cool completely before glazing.
To mix glaze, blend confectioners’ sugar and milk until smooth. Spread glaze over the top, letting it drizzle down the sides.
To serve, cut off the frosted crown and place in the center of a serving plate. Cut remaining loaf lengthwise, then in half crosswise, and arrange on plate around the cut top.
Foods and specialty dishes are an integral part of holidays, and Easter has some wonderful ones. The Italians prepare wonderful rustic and savory pies for Easter, such as pizza rustica di pasqua, which is ham, salami and mozzarella cheese filled pie. Don’t let the word pizza confuse you; pizza means pie in Italian. Another pie is pizza di scarola, an escarole pie, and one of my favorites. On the sweet side is the ricotta pie and grain pie.
The Italian grain pie is made with soft wheat berries, and though it doesn’t sound very appetizing, it is not to be missed. All my life, I always thought the little nibs in the pie were tapioca, since it looked just like tapioca. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I discovered the grain in the pie were wheat berries.
The English have their Easter specialty, as well. Hot cross buns have been associated with Easter since Tudor times when they were traditionally made on Good Friday to be eaten over the holiday weekend.
Every family has their own recipe for these sweet breads, but I love them when they are filled with currants and glacéed fruit.
The French have a rich dessert called blancmange, which is a molded custard thickened with ground almonds, and flavored with kirsch. This recipe has been found in mediaeval manuscripts.
In Russia, a nut and fruit-filled yeast cake called kulich is served during Easter. The classic kulich contains glacéed fruit, almonds, and raisins.
This sweet bread is baked in a special pan that is tall and cylindrical like a coffee can. When the cake is finished baking, it is decorated with white frosting drizzled down the sides. On the side, spelled out in pieces of glacéed fruit, were the letter XB, representing the Cyrillic letters for “Christos voskres” (Christ is risen).
Accompanying the kulich is a sweet cheese spread called paskha, which is carefully molded in a triangular shape. The letters XB are also inscribed on this creation.
Whichever sweet or savory bread you’re baking this Easter, may your holiday be filled with the love of family and friends, and may this spring raise your spirits.
Russian Easter Kulich
2 1/2 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons yeast
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup butter
1 egg
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup currants
1 tablespoon rum or sherry
1/4 cup slivered almonds
Glaze:
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1- 1/2 teaspoons milk
Butter a 2-lb. coffee can. Fold a double sheet of aluminum foil around the top of the can to extend it about 2 inches.
Soak raisins and currants in the sherry for about 1/2 hour before beginning dough.
Combine yeast, 1 cup flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl of an electric mixer. Heat milk and butter until butter is melted and mixture is very warm, but not boiling. Pour milk mixture into dry ingredients with mixer slowly running, then beat until smooth. Beat in eggs, egg yolks, and lemon zest. Gradually add remaining flour, beating well after each addition. Beat in almonds and sherry-soaked raisins and currants.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and satiny. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Shape dough into a ball and place in the greased 2-pound coffee can. Loosely cover top of can with plastic wrap or foil and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, or until dough almost reaches the top of the can.
Bake in a preheated 400° oven for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350° and continue baking for another 35 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean and the loaf sounds hollow when thumped. Let cool on a wire rack, remove from can after about 10 minutes and let cool completely before glazing.
To mix glaze, blend confectioners’ sugar and milk until smooth. Spread glaze over the top, letting it drizzle down the sides.
To serve, cut off the frosted crown and place in the center of a serving plate. Cut remaining loaf lengthwise, then in half crosswise, and arrange on plate around the cut top.
Thursday, April 06, 2006
40 Years in the Desert
Passover begins at sundown on April 12. I look forward to this holiday each year because it’s a time for a little bit of sacrificing. Although it may be minor, the sacrifice is still challenging.
During the eight days of Passover, no leaven (bread) products can be eaten, and that would include crackers, and breadcrumbs.
This ban would also exclude anything made from the five major grains (wheat, rye, barley, oats, and spelt). The only grain product permitted is matzo. Matzo is unleavened bread, made simply from flour and water and cooked very quickly. This is the bread that the Jews made for their flight from Egypt.
Necessity is the mother of invention and very inventive ways have been devised to use matzo for cooking: matzo flour (finely ground for cakes and cookies), matzo meal (coarsely ground as a breadcrumb substitute), matzo farfel (little chunks as a stuffing substitute), and full-sized matzos as a bread substitute.
I find that this is a great time to follow a low-carb diet for 2 weeks. Bread and pasta are already taken out of the equation for me because of Passover restrictions; if I just don’t overdo it with the matzo, I’ll do fine.
Therefore, on the days leading up to the beginning of Passover, I start looking for recipes exclusive of bread, bread products, and pasta.
There are the usual standbys of sautéed or baked unbreaded chicken, meat or fish. Dinner is usually taken care of, and flourless chocolate cake or coconut macaroons are yummy for dessert; it’s breakfast and lunch that is a challenge. Included are some ideas. However, I’m always on the lookout for new Passover dishes. Please send them along, if you’d like to share.
Hopefully at the end of Passover, I’ll be closer to enlightenment and ten pounds lighter.
Breakfast Matzo Brie
Some cooks make this savory; I like it sweetened. If you’d rather have it more omelet-like, eliminate the brown sugar and cinnamon and add salt and pepper to taste, and some sautéed garlic and onions if you like.
1 matzo
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon brown sugar
Pinch of cinnamon
Break matzo in a large bowl and pour hot water over it to cover. After a minute or two, pour off water, squeeze excess water out and add the beaten egg, sugar and cinnamon; mix well.
Melt a little butter in a skillet and add the mixture all at once; flatten out into a large pancake. You can cut it in the pan while it is cooking, or make smaller individual one. Flip it when it starts to get crusty underneath. Don’t worry if you can’t flip it all at once; not many people can.
Cook through on the other side until it’s cooked, but still soft. Serve immediately with maple syrup, jam or brown sugar sprinkled on top.
Los Angeles Caponata
Something for lunch, serve this with matzo, lettuce leaves, or on cucumber rounds.
3 pounds eggplant, unpeeled
1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored and sliced julienne
2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
4 medium tomatoes or 2 cups canned plum tomatoes, drained and chopped
6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Dash of freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Matzo, lettuce leaves or cucumber rounds for serving
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons pine nuts
Slice the eggplant lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch half-moon slices. If using fresh tomatoes, peel them, remove seeds, core and cut into small chunks.
Place 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté the sliced onions and pepper until the onions are just wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and eggplant. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is tender, about 10 minutes. Add salt, sugar, oregano, and pepper; stir, and cook 2 minutes more.
Remove from heat and gently stir in the chopped tomatoes. Transfer to a large bowl; mix in the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon juice. Chill at least 4 hours. Serve chilled on lettuce leaves sprinkled with fresh parsley and pine nuts. Serves 8.
Mock Chopped Liver
This is a standard dish served at the Seder dinner, but delicious any time before and afterwards. Some cooks make this with green beans instead of mushrooms.
1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
3 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup chopped walnuts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon water
Sauté the mushrooms and onion in the oil over medium heat until onion is translucent.
Turn into a blender or food processor container; add the walnuts, salt and pepper, and water. Process until blended but not too smooth. Serve as a spread with matzo or cucumber rounds. Makes 1 cup.
During the eight days of Passover, no leaven (bread) products can be eaten, and that would include crackers, and breadcrumbs.
This ban would also exclude anything made from the five major grains (wheat, rye, barley, oats, and spelt). The only grain product permitted is matzo. Matzo is unleavened bread, made simply from flour and water and cooked very quickly. This is the bread that the Jews made for their flight from Egypt.
Necessity is the mother of invention and very inventive ways have been devised to use matzo for cooking: matzo flour (finely ground for cakes and cookies), matzo meal (coarsely ground as a breadcrumb substitute), matzo farfel (little chunks as a stuffing substitute), and full-sized matzos as a bread substitute.
I find that this is a great time to follow a low-carb diet for 2 weeks. Bread and pasta are already taken out of the equation for me because of Passover restrictions; if I just don’t overdo it with the matzo, I’ll do fine.
Therefore, on the days leading up to the beginning of Passover, I start looking for recipes exclusive of bread, bread products, and pasta.
There are the usual standbys of sautéed or baked unbreaded chicken, meat or fish. Dinner is usually taken care of, and flourless chocolate cake or coconut macaroons are yummy for dessert; it’s breakfast and lunch that is a challenge. Included are some ideas. However, I’m always on the lookout for new Passover dishes. Please send them along, if you’d like to share.
Hopefully at the end of Passover, I’ll be closer to enlightenment and ten pounds lighter.
Breakfast Matzo Brie
Some cooks make this savory; I like it sweetened. If you’d rather have it more omelet-like, eliminate the brown sugar and cinnamon and add salt and pepper to taste, and some sautéed garlic and onions if you like.
1 matzo
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon brown sugar
Pinch of cinnamon
Break matzo in a large bowl and pour hot water over it to cover. After a minute or two, pour off water, squeeze excess water out and add the beaten egg, sugar and cinnamon; mix well.
Melt a little butter in a skillet and add the mixture all at once; flatten out into a large pancake. You can cut it in the pan while it is cooking, or make smaller individual one. Flip it when it starts to get crusty underneath. Don’t worry if you can’t flip it all at once; not many people can.
Cook through on the other side until it’s cooked, but still soft. Serve immediately with maple syrup, jam or brown sugar sprinkled on top.
Los Angeles Caponata
Something for lunch, serve this with matzo, lettuce leaves, or on cucumber rounds.
3 pounds eggplant, unpeeled
1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored and sliced julienne
2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
4 medium tomatoes or 2 cups canned plum tomatoes, drained and chopped
6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Dash of freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Matzo, lettuce leaves or cucumber rounds for serving
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons pine nuts
Slice the eggplant lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch half-moon slices. If using fresh tomatoes, peel them, remove seeds, core and cut into small chunks.
Place 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté the sliced onions and pepper until the onions are just wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and eggplant. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is tender, about 10 minutes. Add salt, sugar, oregano, and pepper; stir, and cook 2 minutes more.
Remove from heat and gently stir in the chopped tomatoes. Transfer to a large bowl; mix in the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon juice. Chill at least 4 hours. Serve chilled on lettuce leaves sprinkled with fresh parsley and pine nuts. Serves 8.
Mock Chopped Liver
This is a standard dish served at the Seder dinner, but delicious any time before and afterwards. Some cooks make this with green beans instead of mushrooms.
1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
3 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup chopped walnuts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon water
Sauté the mushrooms and onion in the oil over medium heat until onion is translucent.
Turn into a blender or food processor container; add the walnuts, salt and pepper, and water. Process until blended but not too smooth. Serve as a spread with matzo or cucumber rounds. Makes 1 cup.
Thursday, March 30, 2006
My Space
So, I registered with myspace.com. When my daughters were home for the holidays last December, they both showed me the site online and the pages they had created. I was intrigued.
After hearing more about the site and its creator, Tom, I decided to give it a spin.
I picked my name (that was easy; I picked Ellen), filled in all the info about my favorite movies, books, interests, and clicked to register.
Bam. I had one friend immediately: Tom.
I called up my daughter; I was so excited.
“I’m on myspace.com and I have a friend already: Tom.”
“Mom, Tom is everyone’s friend”, she assured me as she burst my bubble.
Sure enough, back at myspace, I found out that everyone who registers with myspace has Tom as a friend. Tom has 64,489,839 friends. It must be rough for him when Christmas rolls around.
The next day, I invited both my daughters to be my friends.
Each day, I would check myspace for a reply and none came. Days went by and I emailed them both reminding them I was waiting to be their friend.
Finally, two weeks later, I opened up myspace on the computer and found a reply from Juliet. I now had 2 friends—Tom and my daughter.
I clicked on Juliet’s name and her myspace window opened up. She had a really nice background to her site, loads of photos, “daft punk” music playing, and 106 friends.
The next day when I opened up myspace, I had a new friend request—from a 22- and a half-year old in Albany who thought I was cute. I told Juliet.
“Delete him,” she said.
“But he wants to be my friend”, I whined.
“He doesn’t want to be your friend, mom.”
“But, you have 106 friends!”
“Yeah, but I know them,” she assured me.
“You can’t possibly know 106 people”, I blurted.
Back on Juliet’s site, I clicked on her sister’s photo (that would be my other daughter) and found comments from Juliet on Geneva’s site.
“Oh my God. Mom is on myspace. When are you going to “friend” her?”
Well, it’s been a month now and I have 3 friends, Juliet, Geneva, and Tom. I found out how to change the background of my site and add music and photos.
Every day I check on my site. There are no new friends, and no comments. It’s a lot like renovating a building, redecorating, and opening up a shop in which no one visits.
I’ve spent hours redecorating myspace, picking out great music to play, and I’m the only one seeing it. It’s disheartening. I’m starting to get depressed.
In all honesty, though, even if I did have more friends on myspace, what exactly is supposed to happen? Do we have a myspace party? Do we visit each other’s myspace to see what we’ve done with the place?
Maybe if I redecorate, more friends will come. Maybe, I need to serve tea.
http://www.myspace.com/ellenverni
Friendly Moroccan Mint Tea
The preparation and serving of tea in considered an art in Morocco. The teapots come in 3 sizes, and are crafted of tin, brass, aluminum or silver. Depending on social rank, teapots might be engraved silver or gold-plated. Almost all but the poorest families will have an elaborate tea set including a decorative tray and glasses. Tea is almost always prepared in front of the guests so that the tea set and service can be admired. The offering of a glass of green tea with mint is a symbol of friendship, welcome, and hospitality.
4 teaspoons Moroccan or green tea leaves
24 fresh spearmint leaves
4 to 5 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1 quart boiling water
Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Add boiling water to a teapot that holds about 4 cups of water, and swirl to warm the pot. Discard the water and add the tea, mint leaves, and sugar to the teapot. Pour the quart of boiling water into the teapot and swirl once or twice to dissolve the sugar. Allow the tea to steep for 5 minutes.
Pour the tea through a strainer into small decorative Moroccan glasses or teacups. Garnish with several fresh mint leaves, if you like. Serves quite a few friends. Multiply ingredients accordingly to serve 64,489,839 friends.
After hearing more about the site and its creator, Tom, I decided to give it a spin.
I picked my name (that was easy; I picked Ellen), filled in all the info about my favorite movies, books, interests, and clicked to register.
Bam. I had one friend immediately: Tom.
I called up my daughter; I was so excited.
“I’m on myspace.com and I have a friend already: Tom.”
“Mom, Tom is everyone’s friend”, she assured me as she burst my bubble.
Sure enough, back at myspace, I found out that everyone who registers with myspace has Tom as a friend. Tom has 64,489,839 friends. It must be rough for him when Christmas rolls around.
The next day, I invited both my daughters to be my friends.
Each day, I would check myspace for a reply and none came. Days went by and I emailed them both reminding them I was waiting to be their friend.
Finally, two weeks later, I opened up myspace on the computer and found a reply from Juliet. I now had 2 friends—Tom and my daughter.
I clicked on Juliet’s name and her myspace window opened up. She had a really nice background to her site, loads of photos, “daft punk” music playing, and 106 friends.
The next day when I opened up myspace, I had a new friend request—from a 22- and a half-year old in Albany who thought I was cute. I told Juliet.
“Delete him,” she said.
“But he wants to be my friend”, I whined.
“He doesn’t want to be your friend, mom.”
“But, you have 106 friends!”
“Yeah, but I know them,” she assured me.
“You can’t possibly know 106 people”, I blurted.
Back on Juliet’s site, I clicked on her sister’s photo (that would be my other daughter) and found comments from Juliet on Geneva’s site.
“Oh my God. Mom is on myspace. When are you going to “friend” her?”
Well, it’s been a month now and I have 3 friends, Juliet, Geneva, and Tom. I found out how to change the background of my site and add music and photos.
Every day I check on my site. There are no new friends, and no comments. It’s a lot like renovating a building, redecorating, and opening up a shop in which no one visits.
I’ve spent hours redecorating myspace, picking out great music to play, and I’m the only one seeing it. It’s disheartening. I’m starting to get depressed.
In all honesty, though, even if I did have more friends on myspace, what exactly is supposed to happen? Do we have a myspace party? Do we visit each other’s myspace to see what we’ve done with the place?
Maybe if I redecorate, more friends will come. Maybe, I need to serve tea.
http://www.myspace.com/ellenverni
Friendly Moroccan Mint Tea
The preparation and serving of tea in considered an art in Morocco. The teapots come in 3 sizes, and are crafted of tin, brass, aluminum or silver. Depending on social rank, teapots might be engraved silver or gold-plated. Almost all but the poorest families will have an elaborate tea set including a decorative tray and glasses. Tea is almost always prepared in front of the guests so that the tea set and service can be admired. The offering of a glass of green tea with mint is a symbol of friendship, welcome, and hospitality.
4 teaspoons Moroccan or green tea leaves
24 fresh spearmint leaves
4 to 5 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1 quart boiling water
Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Add boiling water to a teapot that holds about 4 cups of water, and swirl to warm the pot. Discard the water and add the tea, mint leaves, and sugar to the teapot. Pour the quart of boiling water into the teapot and swirl once or twice to dissolve the sugar. Allow the tea to steep for 5 minutes.
Pour the tea through a strainer into small decorative Moroccan glasses or teacups. Garnish with several fresh mint leaves, if you like. Serves quite a few friends. Multiply ingredients accordingly to serve 64,489,839 friends.
Thursday, March 23, 2006
Kitchen Alchemy
Browsing through a store last week, I came upon a great find: miniature wire-bail (swing-top) canning jars. I’m always on the look-out for sweet little jars to hold dried herbs and spices. These miniature wire-bail jars are perfect for holding spice blends.
I already have every conceivable spice and dried herb, so it’s a waste of money to buy blends when I could mix up my own from what’s on hand.
In the warm months, I grow many herbs, many of which I am able to pot up and take inside for the cold months. The basil is looking forlorn about now, but I’m still able to use it fresh.
The rosemary is doing great, and I’ve been able to get to the parsley by uncovering it in the snow-laden herb garden. All the other herbs grown in the summer are dried in the fall for winter use.
I fill in the gaps of what herbs I don’t have by buying them and spices dried.
I really encourage you to make your own dried herb and spice blends. I feel like an alchemist in the kitchen when I’ve got my jars of spices lined up with my measuring spoons.
Many of these blends have as many variations as there are cooks who use them. I generally use the classic versions, however all are open to interpretation.
For the most aromatic result, start with whole seeds and berries. If you’re ambitious, you can grind the spices with a mortar and pestle or use an electric coffee grinder. I generally take the short cut and use the ground spices on hand when I can.
One spice blend that I use most often is curry powder. You might think that curry powder is just the grind of one spice, curry. Alas, though there is a curry plant, it is an aromatic herb and not a spice used in this blend.
Curry powder is in fact a blend of spices, varying according to regional preferences. As a result, there are literally, thousands of “curry powders.”
There is sweet curry, hot curry (Madras), Maharajah-style curry, Balti seasoning, Garam Masala, Tandoori seasoning, Rogan Josh and Vindaloo seasoning.
Curry Powder
I like my curry hot, so I use the Madras curry blend. To maximize flavor, dry-roast the whole spices in a hot pan over low heat before grinding them. To make this curry milder, eliminate the dry-roasting.
2 teaspoons turmeric, ground
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
12 cloves, whole
1- 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
1 teaspoon cinnamon, ground
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1- 1/2 teaspoons fenugreek
1/2 teaspoon ginger, ground
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, ground
1 teaspoon chili powder, ground
Grind all ingredients to a coarse powder in a coffee mill, or follow tradition by using a mortar and pestle. In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 1/3 cup.
Herbes de Provence
This blend consists of the herbs commonly grown in the southern region of France. The mixture varies according to the availability of the herbs. This herb blend is most often used with roasted or grilled meat and poultry dishes.
3 tablespoons dried marjoram
3 tablespoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons dried summer savory
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/2 teaspoon dried sage
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 3/4 cup.
Bam Creole Essence
Use on grilled meat, poultry and fish. Or sprinkle on any cooked food when you want a kick.
2- 1/4 tablespoons paprika
1 to 2 tablespoons salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried thyme
In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 2/3 cup.
Italian Seasoning
I use this in soups, stews, tomato sauce, and over salads and pizzas.
2 tablespoons dried basil
2 tablespoons dried marjoram
2 tablespoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried sage
In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 1/2 cup.
A few tips on storing dried herbs and spices:
• Tightly close containers after using what you need to keep the fresh aroma from escaping.
• Do not put a wet spoon into a jar of dried herbs or spices or shake out contents over a steaming pot. You will introduce moisture into the container, which hastens deterioration and may make the herbs and spices moldy.
• Do not store them in the refrigerator.
• As a general rule, you will need 3 to 4 times more fresh herbs than dried. Keep that in mind when substituting fresh for dried and dried for fresh.
I already have every conceivable spice and dried herb, so it’s a waste of money to buy blends when I could mix up my own from what’s on hand.
In the warm months, I grow many herbs, many of which I am able to pot up and take inside for the cold months. The basil is looking forlorn about now, but I’m still able to use it fresh.
The rosemary is doing great, and I’ve been able to get to the parsley by uncovering it in the snow-laden herb garden. All the other herbs grown in the summer are dried in the fall for winter use.
I fill in the gaps of what herbs I don’t have by buying them and spices dried.
I really encourage you to make your own dried herb and spice blends. I feel like an alchemist in the kitchen when I’ve got my jars of spices lined up with my measuring spoons.
Many of these blends have as many variations as there are cooks who use them. I generally use the classic versions, however all are open to interpretation.
For the most aromatic result, start with whole seeds and berries. If you’re ambitious, you can grind the spices with a mortar and pestle or use an electric coffee grinder. I generally take the short cut and use the ground spices on hand when I can.
One spice blend that I use most often is curry powder. You might think that curry powder is just the grind of one spice, curry. Alas, though there is a curry plant, it is an aromatic herb and not a spice used in this blend.
Curry powder is in fact a blend of spices, varying according to regional preferences. As a result, there are literally, thousands of “curry powders.”
There is sweet curry, hot curry (Madras), Maharajah-style curry, Balti seasoning, Garam Masala, Tandoori seasoning, Rogan Josh and Vindaloo seasoning.
Curry Powder
I like my curry hot, so I use the Madras curry blend. To maximize flavor, dry-roast the whole spices in a hot pan over low heat before grinding them. To make this curry milder, eliminate the dry-roasting.
2 teaspoons turmeric, ground
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
12 cloves, whole
1- 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
1 teaspoon cinnamon, ground
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1- 1/2 teaspoons fenugreek
1/2 teaspoon ginger, ground
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, ground
1 teaspoon chili powder, ground
Grind all ingredients to a coarse powder in a coffee mill, or follow tradition by using a mortar and pestle. In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 1/3 cup.
Herbes de Provence
This blend consists of the herbs commonly grown in the southern region of France. The mixture varies according to the availability of the herbs. This herb blend is most often used with roasted or grilled meat and poultry dishes.
3 tablespoons dried marjoram
3 tablespoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons dried summer savory
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/2 teaspoon dried sage
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 3/4 cup.
Bam Creole Essence
Use on grilled meat, poultry and fish. Or sprinkle on any cooked food when you want a kick.
2- 1/4 tablespoons paprika
1 to 2 tablespoons salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried thyme
In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 2/3 cup.
Italian Seasoning
I use this in soups, stews, tomato sauce, and over salads and pizzas.
2 tablespoons dried basil
2 tablespoons dried marjoram
2 tablespoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried sage
In a small bowl combine ingredients. Spoon into a tightly-lidded jar and store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 1/2 cup.
A few tips on storing dried herbs and spices:
• Tightly close containers after using what you need to keep the fresh aroma from escaping.
• Do not put a wet spoon into a jar of dried herbs or spices or shake out contents over a steaming pot. You will introduce moisture into the container, which hastens deterioration and may make the herbs and spices moldy.
• Do not store them in the refrigerator.
• As a general rule, you will need 3 to 4 times more fresh herbs than dried. Keep that in mind when substituting fresh for dried and dried for fresh.
Thursday, March 16, 2006
We All Need a Little Coddling
I’m not Irish, but I love celebrating St. Patrick’s Day. I think it’s because the holiday falls so close to the first day of spring, and the theme color of green is the color of new growth and new hope.
When I lived in NYC, I tried never to miss the St. Patrick’s Day parade, and loved getting my green bagel in the morning. And, wherever I am on the holiday, I try to get my annual dose of corned beef and cabbage, either from a community-funded dinner or in an Irish pub.
I don’t make corned beef and cabbage at home, but I will bake Irish soda bread, and put up a large pot of slow-cooking Irish stew.
The Irish get such a bad rap when it comes to their cooking. They just can’t seem to get away from the corned beef and cabbage stereotype.
There is so much more to Irish cooking. Dishes in Ireland are prepared with wonderful fish and seafood, such as prawns, scallops, mussels, crab, and their wonderful salmon.
Delicious chicken dishes are also featured, as well as those with bacon, sausage, beef and pork, including Limerick ham (cured leg of pork baked with juniper berries, cloves, mustard and sugar).
Coddle is traditionally made in Ireland with sausage, bacon, and potatoes or sliced carrots.
And, like England, Ireland has adopted the cuisine of other cultures into its own. Boxty, a traditional potato pancake fried on a griddle gets a makeover with grilled vegetables and goat cheese.
This week get your annual dose of corned beef and cabbage like I do, but try these other traditional Irish recipes as well.
Irish Lamb Stew
Traditionally cooked in layers, serve this hearty stew with thick slices of soda bread or buttermilk biscuits.
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 boiling potatoes, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices
2 yellow onions, sliced
1 large turnip, cut in 1/4-inch slices
2 fresh sprigs of thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
3 sprigs fresh parsley (save some for a garnish)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a large, heavy pot, place lamb cubes and water to cover by 1-inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a dish. Pour the broth into a separate bowl and set aside.
Layer half of the potato slices in the bottom of the same pot. Cover with half of the onion slices, and then top with all of the turnip slices. Distribute the lamb evenly over the turnips and top with the thyme, parsley, salt and pepper. Top with remaining onions and finally the remaining potatoes. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve over the potatoes.
Bring to a low boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer gently until the lamb is tender when pierced, about 2 hours.
Spoon into bowls, discard the cooked sprigs of thyme and parsley and garnish each serving with fresh parsley. Serves 4 to 6.
Dublin Coddle
A quick main course, or served with eggs this dish makes a yummy breakfast.
3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound breakfast sausage links, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 bacon slices, coarsely chopped
1 can (14.5 ounces) beef broth
Arrange potatoes in the bottom of a large, heavy saucepan; sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the parsley. Top with onions; sprinkle with another tablespoon of parsley. Top with sausage and bacon. Pour broth over. Season with pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover pan; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are tender and sausage is cooked through, about 40 minutes.
Uncover pan. Boil until liquids are slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 6.
When I lived in NYC, I tried never to miss the St. Patrick’s Day parade, and loved getting my green bagel in the morning. And, wherever I am on the holiday, I try to get my annual dose of corned beef and cabbage, either from a community-funded dinner or in an Irish pub.
I don’t make corned beef and cabbage at home, but I will bake Irish soda bread, and put up a large pot of slow-cooking Irish stew.
The Irish get such a bad rap when it comes to their cooking. They just can’t seem to get away from the corned beef and cabbage stereotype.
There is so much more to Irish cooking. Dishes in Ireland are prepared with wonderful fish and seafood, such as prawns, scallops, mussels, crab, and their wonderful salmon.
Delicious chicken dishes are also featured, as well as those with bacon, sausage, beef and pork, including Limerick ham (cured leg of pork baked with juniper berries, cloves, mustard and sugar).
Coddle is traditionally made in Ireland with sausage, bacon, and potatoes or sliced carrots.
And, like England, Ireland has adopted the cuisine of other cultures into its own. Boxty, a traditional potato pancake fried on a griddle gets a makeover with grilled vegetables and goat cheese.
This week get your annual dose of corned beef and cabbage like I do, but try these other traditional Irish recipes as well.
Irish Lamb Stew
Traditionally cooked in layers, serve this hearty stew with thick slices of soda bread or buttermilk biscuits.
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 boiling potatoes, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices
2 yellow onions, sliced
1 large turnip, cut in 1/4-inch slices
2 fresh sprigs of thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
3 sprigs fresh parsley (save some for a garnish)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
In a large, heavy pot, place lamb cubes and water to cover by 1-inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a dish. Pour the broth into a separate bowl and set aside.
Layer half of the potato slices in the bottom of the same pot. Cover with half of the onion slices, and then top with all of the turnip slices. Distribute the lamb evenly over the turnips and top with the thyme, parsley, salt and pepper. Top with remaining onions and finally the remaining potatoes. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve over the potatoes.
Bring to a low boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer gently until the lamb is tender when pierced, about 2 hours.
Spoon into bowls, discard the cooked sprigs of thyme and parsley and garnish each serving with fresh parsley. Serves 4 to 6.
Dublin Coddle
A quick main course, or served with eggs this dish makes a yummy breakfast.
3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound breakfast sausage links, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 bacon slices, coarsely chopped
1 can (14.5 ounces) beef broth
Arrange potatoes in the bottom of a large, heavy saucepan; sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the parsley. Top with onions; sprinkle with another tablespoon of parsley. Top with sausage and bacon. Pour broth over. Season with pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover pan; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are tender and sausage is cooked through, about 40 minutes.
Uncover pan. Boil until liquids are slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 6.
Thursday, March 09, 2006
Serving Memories
Some time ago, I was invited to new friends’ one evening. When I arrived, and after all the handshakes and kisses were exchanged, the host said hors d’oeuvres would be ready in a few minutes.
The oven timer buzzed and he took out a tray of English muffin pizzas, and I thought, “I really like these people.”
Oh sure, there’s sushi, and fussy canapés, and the ever-present hummus dip (which I do love), but sometimes there is just nothing like an English muffin pizza.
I couldn’t find the exact origin and time that English muffin pizzas first made their appearance, but I recall making them when I was a teenager; that would make their debut in the 1960s or 1970s. If anyone knows the answer to this query, please let me know.
I actually found recipes online for making English muffin pizzas, as if one needed specific instructions. Although, to be fair, there is one step in the creation of these tasty concoctions that might be skipped: the toasting of the muffin before layering the sauce and cheese.
Now, I used to just pop the halves in the toaster to lightly toast them. However, recipes say to place the halves cut side down on a baking sheet and broil until lightly toasted, and then place the layers on the untoasted side.
There’s also debate as to the state of the mozzarella cheese before broiling. I have found that if you slice the cheese and place it over the sauce the whole slice comes away with the first bite leaving you with an English muffin spread with tomato sauce.
Therefore, I grate the mozzarella and sprinkle it on top of the sauce and it’s just perfect. And perfect it really is: a wondrous little snack of muffin, cheese, and tomato sauce so nice and hot.
In lieu of English muffins, you could use split pita bread or flat bread, but it’s just not the same. You could even make them ultra miniature by using crackers, slices of baguette, or Melba toast rounds.
I made a very interesting canapé recently using grated apple and cheddar mixed with a little mayonnaise and mustard and then placed on Melba toast rounds and broiled briefly.
Now that I think of it, though, with all the grating, mixing, broiling, and serving them quickly before they cool, I would have done better had I served English muffin pizzas.
English Muffin Pizzas
4 English muffins split in half
1/3 cup marinara sauce
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
Dried oregano to taste
Place muffins, cut side down, on a baking sheet and broil until lightly toasted. Spread the cut side of the muffins with marinara sauce and season with oregano. Top with the shredded mozzarella. Return muffins to broilers for an additional 3 to 5 minutes, or until the cheese melts. Serves 4.
Sweet Pear and Gorgonzola Crostini
16 slices baguette, cut 1/2-inch thick
4 ounces Gorgonzola or bleu cheese, crumbled
1 small ripe pear, cored and sliced very thin
2 tablespoons honey
Preheat broiler. Place bread slices on a baking sheet. Broil 4 or 5 inches from the heat for 30 to 60 seconds or until bread is lightly toasted. Turn each bread slice, and top with some of the Gorgonzola. Broil 30 to 60 seconds more or until cheese is bubbly and bread is toasted. Top each bread slice with a pear slice, and drizzle with a little bit of honey. Serve at once. Makes 16 appetizers. Now wouldn’t it be easier to make English muffin pizzas?
The oven timer buzzed and he took out a tray of English muffin pizzas, and I thought, “I really like these people.”
Oh sure, there’s sushi, and fussy canapés, and the ever-present hummus dip (which I do love), but sometimes there is just nothing like an English muffin pizza.
I couldn’t find the exact origin and time that English muffin pizzas first made their appearance, but I recall making them when I was a teenager; that would make their debut in the 1960s or 1970s. If anyone knows the answer to this query, please let me know.
I actually found recipes online for making English muffin pizzas, as if one needed specific instructions. Although, to be fair, there is one step in the creation of these tasty concoctions that might be skipped: the toasting of the muffin before layering the sauce and cheese.
Now, I used to just pop the halves in the toaster to lightly toast them. However, recipes say to place the halves cut side down on a baking sheet and broil until lightly toasted, and then place the layers on the untoasted side.
There’s also debate as to the state of the mozzarella cheese before broiling. I have found that if you slice the cheese and place it over the sauce the whole slice comes away with the first bite leaving you with an English muffin spread with tomato sauce.
Therefore, I grate the mozzarella and sprinkle it on top of the sauce and it’s just perfect. And perfect it really is: a wondrous little snack of muffin, cheese, and tomato sauce so nice and hot.
In lieu of English muffins, you could use split pita bread or flat bread, but it’s just not the same. You could even make them ultra miniature by using crackers, slices of baguette, or Melba toast rounds.
I made a very interesting canapé recently using grated apple and cheddar mixed with a little mayonnaise and mustard and then placed on Melba toast rounds and broiled briefly.
Now that I think of it, though, with all the grating, mixing, broiling, and serving them quickly before they cool, I would have done better had I served English muffin pizzas.
English Muffin Pizzas
4 English muffins split in half
1/3 cup marinara sauce
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
Dried oregano to taste
Place muffins, cut side down, on a baking sheet and broil until lightly toasted. Spread the cut side of the muffins with marinara sauce and season with oregano. Top with the shredded mozzarella. Return muffins to broilers for an additional 3 to 5 minutes, or until the cheese melts. Serves 4.
Sweet Pear and Gorgonzola Crostini
16 slices baguette, cut 1/2-inch thick
4 ounces Gorgonzola or bleu cheese, crumbled
1 small ripe pear, cored and sliced very thin
2 tablespoons honey
Preheat broiler. Place bread slices on a baking sheet. Broil 4 or 5 inches from the heat for 30 to 60 seconds or until bread is lightly toasted. Turn each bread slice, and top with some of the Gorgonzola. Broil 30 to 60 seconds more or until cheese is bubbly and bread is toasted. Top each bread slice with a pear slice, and drizzle with a little bit of honey. Serve at once. Makes 16 appetizers. Now wouldn’t it be easier to make English muffin pizzas?
Thursday, March 02, 2006
Mellow Mallows
I’m taking a break from sneaking political opinion into this food column, because it’s just too stressful. Writing is not too stressful; it’s all the latest political intrigue that’s stressful.
I’m starting to have nightmares. Just last night, I dreamt I had climbed a whole lot of steps at an almost 90° angle up to a building. And when I reached the top, George Bush was there. I glanced warily over my shoulder at the long drop down the stairs (heights scare me lately), and said to George, “It’s a long way down.”
Whereupon (not too many people use that word these days) he said, “Yup, it is.” And he stuck his finger at me and pushed me over the edge. Luckily, I awoke at the 50th step and third bounce down.
Too stressful.
And then just the other day I was watching Scott McClellan duck questions from the press; all I could think of was the time my parents took me to the circus for the first time. One of the acts was a man tied to a spinning circle while his partner threw knives at him. I’m worried for Scott. Eventually, one of those knives is going to hit him, and he’s going to have to answer a question. I don’t think he could handle it; I know I can’t.
So, this week, since politics and global happenings are just too stressful and because I’ve had Scott McClellan on my mind, I’m going to write about marshmallows.
You might ask, “What exactly is a marshmallow?”
I asked my computer the very same question. My computer replied that it is a confection made of sugar or corn syrup, gelatin, and flavoring. The original recipe used an extract from the root of the marshmallow plant (a shrub like herb) and was enjoyed by the Ancient Egyptians.
Marshmallows were produced commercially in the late 19th century. The mixture was pushed out a tube, cut into sections and rolled in a mixture of cornstarch and confectioners’ sugar.
Life would be dull and unamusing without marshmallows. There would be no roasting marshmallows around a campfire and watching them go up in flames and reduced to the charred gooey mess that we all love.
Personally, I like it when they are just lightly browned all around. It takes years of practice to perfect the placement of the skewered marshmallow over the flame so that it does not ignite.
From roasting marshmallows, it’s a short jump to making S’mores. No one knows who started this phenomenon; however, in the 1927 Girl Scout Handbook there is a recipe combining marshmallows with chocolate and graham crackers.
Without marshmallows, hot chocolate would be just a bowl of heated chocolate and milk. With marshmallows, cocoa becomes an event. And if you’re lucky to find colored marshmallows, well, life just doesn’t get any better.
There are some trendy cafes now that serve cups of hot chocolate with homemade marshmallows. Sure, they’re overpriced, but when the wind has been kicking up and the cold is going through you like a knife; when the vice-president is trying to kill people, and when the president is selling our ports to the Arabs, it’s a luxury that is well worth it.
If you want to make your own marshmallows at home, here’s a recipe that makes a really close clone to those specialty café confections.
Marshmallows
3 envelopes unflavored, unsweetened gelatin
1/2 cup water
2 cups granulated sugar
2/3 cup corn syrup
1/4 cup water
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar
Combine gelatin and 1/2 cup water in the bowl of an electric mixer with whisk attachment. Let stand 30 minutes.
Combine granulated sugar, corn syrup, water and salt in a small heavy saucepan; place over low heat and stir until sugar has dissolved. If you have a candy thermometer, clip it on the saucepan, and raise heat to high. Cook syrup without stirring until it reaches 244° (the firm-ball stage). Immediately remove the pan from heat.
With mixer on low speed, slowly and carefully drizzle syrup into the softened gelatin. Increase speed to high; beat until mixture is very thick and white and has almost tripled in volume, about 15 minutes. Add vanilla (if you want to tint your marshmallows, this would be the time to add food coloring). Beat again to incorporate vanilla.
Grease bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch pan with butter and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Pour marshmallow mixture into pan and smooth top with a spatula. Dust top with confectioners’ sugar; let stand overnight, uncovered, to dry out.
The next day, invert the pan on a cutting board that is lightly covered with confectioners’ sugar. Release the marshmallow from the pan by pulling from one corner and working it loose from the pan.
An easy way to cut the marshmallows is to use a large wet pizza wheel, dredging each piece in confectioners’ sugar until the sides are not sticky anymore. Place the marshmallows on a cake rack covered with paper towels and let them stand overnight to dry the surface slightly. Store in an airtight container and they will keep for a month. Makes about 40 large marshmallows for enough cups of hot chocolate until the spring thaw.
I’m starting to have nightmares. Just last night, I dreamt I had climbed a whole lot of steps at an almost 90° angle up to a building. And when I reached the top, George Bush was there. I glanced warily over my shoulder at the long drop down the stairs (heights scare me lately), and said to George, “It’s a long way down.”
Whereupon (not too many people use that word these days) he said, “Yup, it is.” And he stuck his finger at me and pushed me over the edge. Luckily, I awoke at the 50th step and third bounce down.
Too stressful.
And then just the other day I was watching Scott McClellan duck questions from the press; all I could think of was the time my parents took me to the circus for the first time. One of the acts was a man tied to a spinning circle while his partner threw knives at him. I’m worried for Scott. Eventually, one of those knives is going to hit him, and he’s going to have to answer a question. I don’t think he could handle it; I know I can’t.
So, this week, since politics and global happenings are just too stressful and because I’ve had Scott McClellan on my mind, I’m going to write about marshmallows.
You might ask, “What exactly is a marshmallow?”
I asked my computer the very same question. My computer replied that it is a confection made of sugar or corn syrup, gelatin, and flavoring. The original recipe used an extract from the root of the marshmallow plant (a shrub like herb) and was enjoyed by the Ancient Egyptians.
Marshmallows were produced commercially in the late 19th century. The mixture was pushed out a tube, cut into sections and rolled in a mixture of cornstarch and confectioners’ sugar.
Life would be dull and unamusing without marshmallows. There would be no roasting marshmallows around a campfire and watching them go up in flames and reduced to the charred gooey mess that we all love.
Personally, I like it when they are just lightly browned all around. It takes years of practice to perfect the placement of the skewered marshmallow over the flame so that it does not ignite.
From roasting marshmallows, it’s a short jump to making S’mores. No one knows who started this phenomenon; however, in the 1927 Girl Scout Handbook there is a recipe combining marshmallows with chocolate and graham crackers.
Without marshmallows, hot chocolate would be just a bowl of heated chocolate and milk. With marshmallows, cocoa becomes an event. And if you’re lucky to find colored marshmallows, well, life just doesn’t get any better.
There are some trendy cafes now that serve cups of hot chocolate with homemade marshmallows. Sure, they’re overpriced, but when the wind has been kicking up and the cold is going through you like a knife; when the vice-president is trying to kill people, and when the president is selling our ports to the Arabs, it’s a luxury that is well worth it.
If you want to make your own marshmallows at home, here’s a recipe that makes a really close clone to those specialty café confections.
Marshmallows
3 envelopes unflavored, unsweetened gelatin
1/2 cup water
2 cups granulated sugar
2/3 cup corn syrup
1/4 cup water
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar
Combine gelatin and 1/2 cup water in the bowl of an electric mixer with whisk attachment. Let stand 30 minutes.
Combine granulated sugar, corn syrup, water and salt in a small heavy saucepan; place over low heat and stir until sugar has dissolved. If you have a candy thermometer, clip it on the saucepan, and raise heat to high. Cook syrup without stirring until it reaches 244° (the firm-ball stage). Immediately remove the pan from heat.
With mixer on low speed, slowly and carefully drizzle syrup into the softened gelatin. Increase speed to high; beat until mixture is very thick and white and has almost tripled in volume, about 15 minutes. Add vanilla (if you want to tint your marshmallows, this would be the time to add food coloring). Beat again to incorporate vanilla.
Grease bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch pan with butter and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Pour marshmallow mixture into pan and smooth top with a spatula. Dust top with confectioners’ sugar; let stand overnight, uncovered, to dry out.
The next day, invert the pan on a cutting board that is lightly covered with confectioners’ sugar. Release the marshmallow from the pan by pulling from one corner and working it loose from the pan.
An easy way to cut the marshmallows is to use a large wet pizza wheel, dredging each piece in confectioners’ sugar until the sides are not sticky anymore. Place the marshmallows on a cake rack covered with paper towels and let them stand overnight to dry the surface slightly. Store in an airtight container and they will keep for a month. Makes about 40 large marshmallows for enough cups of hot chocolate until the spring thaw.
Thursday, February 23, 2006
Riding Shotgun
Hmmm. Now, what should I write about this week? I could write about cooking wild game, such as quail. But, really, who in their right mind goes out quail hunting these days?
I could write about pepper. Lots of people like to pepper their food. Some even like to pepper their friends.
I’ve already written about decorative shot, so writing about shot is out.
The thing is, writing this column is a gamble. The column is submitted to the editor a week before it is actually printed; by the time you read this quail, pepper, and shot could be old news. Something entirely different could be in the forefront of the news. Maybe White House Press Secretary Scott McClellan will run over a paddle of ducks with his tricycle. I had to look that up; I had no idea what groups of ducks were called.
Or, and here’s a unique thought, maybe nothing at all will happen within the administration. Maybe a week will go by when no one within the president’s administration will try to kill someone, or steal someone’s rights, or choke on a pretzel, or alienate another country. Nah, who am I kidding!
So, putting all my ducks in a row, and quailing in apprehension, I’m going to give it a shot and write about bird’s-nest pudding.
Bird’s-nest pudding, also called crow’s-nest pudding, is a very old New England fruit pudding most commonly made with apples. The finished result somewhat resembles a bird’s nest.
I can’t wait to see what next week’s news brings my way. I should start early and do some research on beaten biscuits, sad cake, and quaking custard.
Bird’s Nest Pudding
6 tart apples
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 cups heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350°F. Peel the apples and remove the core by cutting from the end into the middle, leaving the apples whole. Place them in a deep pie dish, close together. Stuff the core of each apple with brown sugar, pressing down slightly. Reserve any remaining sugar. Sprinkle all the apples with the 1/4-teaspoon grated nutmeg. Place dish in the preheated oven to start baking while you prepare the batter.
Separate the egg. Beat the egg whites until stiff. In a separate bowl, beat the yolks until they change color. Stir the milk into the beaten yolks. in a third bowl, combine the flour, cream of tartar, baking powder, salt, and any remaining brown sugar until well mixed. Pour flour mixture all at once into egg yolk mixture and stir until smooth. Fold beaten egg whites into the batter.
Remove apples from the oven and pour the batter evenly over and around the apples. Bake in preheated oven 45 to 60 minutes more, until crust forms and is brown.
Make the sweetened cream. Stir sifted confectioners’ sugar and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg into the heavy cream. Stir well to combine.
To serve, scoop out each apple with surrounding fluffy crust onto a plate and serve with sweetened cream. Serves 6.
I could write about pepper. Lots of people like to pepper their food. Some even like to pepper their friends.
I’ve already written about decorative shot, so writing about shot is out.
The thing is, writing this column is a gamble. The column is submitted to the editor a week before it is actually printed; by the time you read this quail, pepper, and shot could be old news. Something entirely different could be in the forefront of the news. Maybe White House Press Secretary Scott McClellan will run over a paddle of ducks with his tricycle. I had to look that up; I had no idea what groups of ducks were called.
Or, and here’s a unique thought, maybe nothing at all will happen within the administration. Maybe a week will go by when no one within the president’s administration will try to kill someone, or steal someone’s rights, or choke on a pretzel, or alienate another country. Nah, who am I kidding!
So, putting all my ducks in a row, and quailing in apprehension, I’m going to give it a shot and write about bird’s-nest pudding.
Bird’s-nest pudding, also called crow’s-nest pudding, is a very old New England fruit pudding most commonly made with apples. The finished result somewhat resembles a bird’s nest.
I can’t wait to see what next week’s news brings my way. I should start early and do some research on beaten biscuits, sad cake, and quaking custard.
Bird’s Nest Pudding
6 tart apples
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 cups heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350°F. Peel the apples and remove the core by cutting from the end into the middle, leaving the apples whole. Place them in a deep pie dish, close together. Stuff the core of each apple with brown sugar, pressing down slightly. Reserve any remaining sugar. Sprinkle all the apples with the 1/4-teaspoon grated nutmeg. Place dish in the preheated oven to start baking while you prepare the batter.
Separate the egg. Beat the egg whites until stiff. In a separate bowl, beat the yolks until they change color. Stir the milk into the beaten yolks. in a third bowl, combine the flour, cream of tartar, baking powder, salt, and any remaining brown sugar until well mixed. Pour flour mixture all at once into egg yolk mixture and stir until smooth. Fold beaten egg whites into the batter.
Remove apples from the oven and pour the batter evenly over and around the apples. Bake in preheated oven 45 to 60 minutes more, until crust forms and is brown.
Make the sweetened cream. Stir sifted confectioners’ sugar and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg into the heavy cream. Stir well to combine.
To serve, scoop out each apple with surrounding fluffy crust onto a plate and serve with sweetened cream. Serves 6.
Thursday, February 16, 2006
Denmark is Brisling
You might think that I was going to address the recent uproar concerning certain cartoons in Danish publications (I’m sure the editor and publisher of this newspaper has just taken a deep breath), but alas, this column is about sardines.
Personally, I don’t care much for sardines. I’m sure they hold some delight and respect from others, but if I’m going to have a fish out of a can, I’d rather it be tuna.
However, if sardines are your preference, this column is for you.
Brisling is the Danish and Norwegian name of a sprat, a small sardine-like fish that swims from the north of Norway all the way down to the Mediterranean.
These sprats are caught in the Norwegian fjords, seasoned, canned with oil, and labeled brisling sardines in America.
Brisling sardines are smaller than other sardines and so more of those poor little fish—up to 38 actually—are jammed into tin cans.
These little sardines travel in gigantic schools that extend for miles, and are caught in nets, as they have been for a thousand years by the Scandinavians. Brisling sardines are caught just at maturity, and are about 2 years old.
Then the sardines are wood-smoked in large ovens and hand-packed. The most popular tins of sardines are those packed in oil. However, they also come packed in water, soy oil, tomato sauce, mustard, salsa, and pesto.
I was going to include a caricature of a Danish Sardine, but thought better of it.
Quiche with Sardines, Lavender and Jarlsberg Cheese
If you’d rather not use sardines, you can substitute canned smoked salmon instead. The use of fresh or dried lavender adds interest and sweetness to this recipe. However, if you can’t find lavender, or choose not to use it, fresh or dried dill would be a nice substitute.
One 9-inch piecrust
3 to 4 onions, chopped
4 eggs
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 pound Jarlsberg cheese, grated
1 tablespoon fresh lavender or 1- 1/2 teaspoon dried lavender
1 small jalapeno, or to taste, minced
1/2 to 1 pound brisling sardines or smoked salmon
8 to 10 small cherry tomatoes, halved
Preheat oven to 350°F. Pre-bake the piecrust for 10 minutes. In a large skillet over medium-high heat in 2 tablespoons olive oil, sauté onions. Add the sautéed onions to the piecrust.
In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, cream, and grated Jarlsberg. Season with lavender and jalapeno.
Place half the sardines and half the tomatoes on top of the onions. Add the cheese-egg mixture and spread it out evenly with a rubber spatula. Place the remaining sardines and tomatoes on top in a decorative, circular form.
Bake the quiche in the middle of the oven for 35 to 45 minutes, until almost firm. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serves 4 as a main dish.
Penne with Fried Sardines, Capers and Parsley
1/2 pound penne or ziti
1 cup fresh parsley, chopped fine
1 small red onion, chopped fine
2 tablespoons drained capers
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying
One (3- 3/4-ounce) can brisling sardines, drained on paper towels
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente and drain well in a colander. In a bowl, toss together the cooked pasta, parsley, sautéed onion, capers, crushed red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle mixture with lemon juice and olive oil and toss to combine. Keep warm while you prepare sardines.
In a large skillet heat 1/2-inch vegetable oil over high heat and lower half of sardines with a slotted spoon into oil. Fry sardines until crisp and golden, about 1 minute, and transfer with slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Fry and drain remaining sardines in same manner. Add sardines to pasta and toss to combine. Serves 2. Recipe can be doubled.
Personally, I don’t care much for sardines. I’m sure they hold some delight and respect from others, but if I’m going to have a fish out of a can, I’d rather it be tuna.
However, if sardines are your preference, this column is for you.
Brisling is the Danish and Norwegian name of a sprat, a small sardine-like fish that swims from the north of Norway all the way down to the Mediterranean.
These sprats are caught in the Norwegian fjords, seasoned, canned with oil, and labeled brisling sardines in America.
Brisling sardines are smaller than other sardines and so more of those poor little fish—up to 38 actually—are jammed into tin cans.
These little sardines travel in gigantic schools that extend for miles, and are caught in nets, as they have been for a thousand years by the Scandinavians. Brisling sardines are caught just at maturity, and are about 2 years old.
Then the sardines are wood-smoked in large ovens and hand-packed. The most popular tins of sardines are those packed in oil. However, they also come packed in water, soy oil, tomato sauce, mustard, salsa, and pesto.
I was going to include a caricature of a Danish Sardine, but thought better of it.
Quiche with Sardines, Lavender and Jarlsberg Cheese
If you’d rather not use sardines, you can substitute canned smoked salmon instead. The use of fresh or dried lavender adds interest and sweetness to this recipe. However, if you can’t find lavender, or choose not to use it, fresh or dried dill would be a nice substitute.
One 9-inch piecrust
3 to 4 onions, chopped
4 eggs
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 pound Jarlsberg cheese, grated
1 tablespoon fresh lavender or 1- 1/2 teaspoon dried lavender
1 small jalapeno, or to taste, minced
1/2 to 1 pound brisling sardines or smoked salmon
8 to 10 small cherry tomatoes, halved
Preheat oven to 350°F. Pre-bake the piecrust for 10 minutes. In a large skillet over medium-high heat in 2 tablespoons olive oil, sauté onions. Add the sautéed onions to the piecrust.
In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, cream, and grated Jarlsberg. Season with lavender and jalapeno.
Place half the sardines and half the tomatoes on top of the onions. Add the cheese-egg mixture and spread it out evenly with a rubber spatula. Place the remaining sardines and tomatoes on top in a decorative, circular form.
Bake the quiche in the middle of the oven for 35 to 45 minutes, until almost firm. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serves 4 as a main dish.
Penne with Fried Sardines, Capers and Parsley
1/2 pound penne or ziti
1 cup fresh parsley, chopped fine
1 small red onion, chopped fine
2 tablespoons drained capers
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying
One (3- 3/4-ounce) can brisling sardines, drained on paper towels
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente and drain well in a colander. In a bowl, toss together the cooked pasta, parsley, sautéed onion, capers, crushed red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle mixture with lemon juice and olive oil and toss to combine. Keep warm while you prepare sardines.
In a large skillet heat 1/2-inch vegetable oil over high heat and lower half of sardines with a slotted spoon into oil. Fry sardines until crisp and golden, about 1 minute, and transfer with slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Fry and drain remaining sardines in same manner. Add sardines to pasta and toss to combine. Serves 2. Recipe can be doubled.
Friday, February 03, 2006
The Color of Love
If you are ever in doubt as to what holiday is approaching, just enter a card shop; the certainty of the holiday will grab you visually.
I recently shopped for a birthday card, and masses of pink and red cards assaulted me as soon as I entered the card shop. I spent an hour looking at cards, and finally left the store with an armful of assorted Valentine’s Day cards, forgetting the birthday card I originally came into the store for.
If anything, Valentine’s Day gives one a chance to present true gifts of the heart to those you care about, whether they be husbands or wives, lovers, friends, parents or children.
Our gifts to one another can be most original or funny, but I personally prefer the traditional and classic gifts of flowers and candy. I would be so bold as to say I would take a gift of flowers or candy over a tiny box of jewelry. Jewelry I can buy for myself, but flowers and candy must come from an admirer.
Lovers in 19th century Europe often used the language of flowers to convey secret messages. Which is why the rose became a standard form of expression on Valentine’s Day or at any time you wished to show how much you felt about a loved one.
The manner in which one sent a rose to another said much more than words ever could:
A rosebud stripped of its thorns meant “No one suspects us; we can meet tonight.”
A rosebud stripped of its leaves meant, “We’re in danger of being discovered.”
To send a rose with a bloom over two blooms meant, “We must be secret!”
To receive a bud of a red rose, you were told that you were lovely.
To send a red rose was to convey passion.
A white rose symbolizes purity.
A yellow rose symbolizes infidelity.
And a delicate pink rose said, “Our love is perfect happiness.”
In Victorian times, lovers took the expression one step further by answering the gift of flowers with a response of flowers. If a man sent a woman a red rose, he revealed his love of course, but if she replied with a white rose, she felt she was too young for such emotions. The return of a yellow rose meant she thought him too fickle, and a single rose leaf indicated she wasn’t interested at all. But if she returned another red rose, then Cupid’s arrow had hit its mark.
Rosewater Pound Cake
You can find rosewater (which comes in little amber-colored bottles) in specialty grocery stores. Orange water can be substituted. However orange water is also found in specialty grocery stores. Both are used in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking. They’re sweet and very aromatic.
1 cup butter, softened
1 2/3 cups sugar
5 eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 1/2 ounces (about 1/4-cup) finely chopped almonds
1 teaspoon rosewater
2 drops red food coloring
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease one 9-inch tube pan.
Cream butter well. In a separate bowl, beat sugar and egg together until doubled in volume. Whisk flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda together in a medium bowl. Add sifted flour gradually to batter, mixing after each addition. Fold in creamed butter thoroughly.
Divide batter into two equal parts. Into one part, add the almond extract and the ground almonds. To the other part, add the rosewater and the red food coloring. Spoon batters alternately into the prepared tube pan.
Bake at 350° for 50 to 60 minutes. Let cake cool, remove pan and dust with confectioners’ sugar.
I recently shopped for a birthday card, and masses of pink and red cards assaulted me as soon as I entered the card shop. I spent an hour looking at cards, and finally left the store with an armful of assorted Valentine’s Day cards, forgetting the birthday card I originally came into the store for.
If anything, Valentine’s Day gives one a chance to present true gifts of the heart to those you care about, whether they be husbands or wives, lovers, friends, parents or children.
Our gifts to one another can be most original or funny, but I personally prefer the traditional and classic gifts of flowers and candy. I would be so bold as to say I would take a gift of flowers or candy over a tiny box of jewelry. Jewelry I can buy for myself, but flowers and candy must come from an admirer.
Lovers in 19th century Europe often used the language of flowers to convey secret messages. Which is why the rose became a standard form of expression on Valentine’s Day or at any time you wished to show how much you felt about a loved one.
The manner in which one sent a rose to another said much more than words ever could:
A rosebud stripped of its thorns meant “No one suspects us; we can meet tonight.”
A rosebud stripped of its leaves meant, “We’re in danger of being discovered.”
To send a rose with a bloom over two blooms meant, “We must be secret!”
To receive a bud of a red rose, you were told that you were lovely.
To send a red rose was to convey passion.
A white rose symbolizes purity.
A yellow rose symbolizes infidelity.
And a delicate pink rose said, “Our love is perfect happiness.”
In Victorian times, lovers took the expression one step further by answering the gift of flowers with a response of flowers. If a man sent a woman a red rose, he revealed his love of course, but if she replied with a white rose, she felt she was too young for such emotions. The return of a yellow rose meant she thought him too fickle, and a single rose leaf indicated she wasn’t interested at all. But if she returned another red rose, then Cupid’s arrow had hit its mark.
Rosewater Pound Cake
You can find rosewater (which comes in little amber-colored bottles) in specialty grocery stores. Orange water can be substituted. However orange water is also found in specialty grocery stores. Both are used in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking. They’re sweet and very aromatic.
1 cup butter, softened
1 2/3 cups sugar
5 eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 1/2 ounces (about 1/4-cup) finely chopped almonds
1 teaspoon rosewater
2 drops red food coloring
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease one 9-inch tube pan.
Cream butter well. In a separate bowl, beat sugar and egg together until doubled in volume. Whisk flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda together in a medium bowl. Add sifted flour gradually to batter, mixing after each addition. Fold in creamed butter thoroughly.
Divide batter into two equal parts. Into one part, add the almond extract and the ground almonds. To the other part, add the rosewater and the red food coloring. Spoon batters alternately into the prepared tube pan.
Bake at 350° for 50 to 60 minutes. Let cake cool, remove pan and dust with confectioners’ sugar.
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